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When you take into consideration that the NT aluminum trailer is almost always available with free shipping, the price difference is minimal.
I don’t think it’s a foolish thing at all. I used to be in the kit aircraft industry and this was something that came up on occasion. Some people just need to keep busy and want to learn new things. Some of the customers I sold aircraft kits to were not even pilots.
I’m sure that if it is well done, you would get your monetary investment back and then some. I have gotten a serious offer out of the blue that would put money in my pocket. I refused.
I had an area that looked similar. I carefully sanded that area by hand in a direction that would not chip out the veneer, then pushed forward as normal. I couldn’t even tell you where it was now.
This winter I plan to affix the corners of my galley with a couple “hood pins” or quarter turn fasteners. My worry is that the galley hasp comes loose at 70 mph and the galley hatch flutters and disintegrates in the buffeting air behind the trailer.
I have my vents installed without modification and the “front” indicator facing upward. This works fine in rain while camping but is not sufficient to keep rain out in the swirl of air behind the toe vehicle at speed. Hence the travel plugs. What I do like about this is, the airflow through the camper is unimpeded during rain while camping. We have had some pretty good storms while camping in the teardrop and have stayed nice and dry inside.
It might be good to have a set of spares. The plastic threads on the covers are bound to wear. I remove my covers to insert plugs for travel. A lot of on and off.
I found that the 3m super trim adhesive did not properly seal the capture channel on the seal to the drip rail. I had to run a bead of the boat life sealant around the channel and the drip rail to seal this properly.
No need to apologize. Go forward into the unknown and develop awesome tech for the rest of us to benefit from. If I had the time, I would be working on an arduino based TDCM (TearDrop Control Module) to control my lights and fan with the ability control these using bluetooth from my cell phone. It would also be nice to see state of charge on the phone also. I ran out of time this season. I chose to camp rather then tinker. Maybe if I check everything off the list this winter I will return to it.
I would suggest looking to http://tnttt.com for advise. My electrical is very simple 12v only. Battery, fuse block, ground strip. I charge directly to the battery with either a 110 charger or solar. Things get complicated when you bring shore power 110v into the mix. Most use an RV electrical panels to delegate power to batteries outlets lights etc.
I still think the floor is too weak for a 60 lb battery. I think we will see this again. My joints all held. All of my damage came from plywood pulling apart. Granted mine had a couple thousand miles of rough road on it before I had the failure. Nobody puts MTB and gravel races at the end of smooth roads. Just for reference, I have removed all but one of the leaves on the springs and mounted my lights directly to the rear cross member. At this point I’m on my second set of tires (radials this time) and I’m heading out for another race this weekend. I love this trailer, it steals the show everywhere I go. The one thing I would improve is the galley floor. The rest is rolling AWESOME. As far as needing a battery that big. a 100ah battery is only a real world 50ah because to have good battery life you never want to draw more then 50%. Take into account some loss of efficiency over time and the value is even less.
