This topic contains 14 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  mpilone 1 month ago.

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  • #1169

    Bill
    Participant


    This is what I came up with rather than use a padlock for a galley hatch lock. My original plan was to use one lock in the center but when the center was snug the sides were loose fitting so I went with two locks. Trouble was when I ordered I had to order five and since I wasn’t thinking of this arrangement I did not ask for them to all to be set on the same key, sometime I’l place another order and fix this problem as these Locke can’t be disassembled and rekeyed. They are stainless though and have a water prof cover that slides closed when the key is removed. They swing into a slit in a block to lock. A lot of time was spent on making sure my drilled hole was correct. For now I have keys marked red and green for starboard and port.

    #1170

    stevie
    Participant

    I like that – very clever.  

    I didn’t believe my single hasp latch was keeping my galley hatch  secured tightly enough.  I found these stainless steel Mizugiwa latches on amazon.com.   Two more galley hasp blocks were necessary, but that was easy enough.  And they will accept a small padlock.

    Here’s where I found them:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LA9Q9RC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    #1171

    mpilone
    Participant

    Interesting ideas. I was thinking you could use the same mechanism as the doors and have bars that run off to either side and catch under the gutter. Then you would have a single handle in the middle, with a lock, that actuates the bars to clamp on either side. So basically just like the doors but horizontal rather than vertical articulation.

    -mike

    #1295

    Bill
    Participant

    Hi Mike, about 5 years ago I built my first teardrop for my daughter and I used two lock handles rather than one. Those worked like a car door, as you pushed down the spring loaded latched itself. After using it I wished I had of done the one center located handle with arms going to either side, it would have worked there but not on this galley unless you grew a third hand or had a helper whenever latching it down. This galley is very flexible and has piston lifts working against you. Both edges would need to be held down in alignment at the same time for a tight compressed seal before you could turn the handle to lock it down. Another consideration is the strength of lift in the pistons might not be strong enough to support all that extra weight. For my daughters I used old type mechanisms like very old cars. Lift it up and it goes into a lock position, lift again and it unlocks and gravity is your friend to close it. By the way, I wanted to mount a solar panel on that hatch but due to weight I also had to nix that idea. Hope this helps.
    Bill

    #1302

    mpilone
    Participant

    Good point, Bill. I got my hatch installed this weekend with the pistons and I agree that they won’t support much weight. I had picked up a multi-segment hasp as @apkley mentioned in this post (http://teardropforum.com/forums/topic/hatch-hasp-clasp/) but even that seems a little heavy. One option is to reverse it so only the loop is on the hatch but I’m still looking at options.

    Do you get any water leaking through the tumbler?

    -mike

    #1304

    faithie999
    Participant

    I am using the CLC-supplied hasp, but I have an issue with the gas springs.  later this morning I’m going to call Attwood and talk to them about it.

    the gas springs are rated for 20# of force.  clearly the hatch and the hasp weigh much less than the 40# that two springs should support.  this might be an issue of how Attwood rates the force.

    when I first installed the springs (3 wks ago) they opened to 19″ under the weight of the hatch.  the springs are supposed to extend 20″.  my son just returned from a week-long trip with the TD and now the springs only extend 18″.  this translates to an opening of 34″ rather than 46″.

    I’m going to ask Attwood if the springs are acting as they are designed, and CLC should have supplied a set with higher force, or if these are defective.

    #1305

    friz
    Participant

    This winter I plan to affix the corners of my galley with a couple “hood pins” or quarter turn fasteners. My worry is that the galley hasp comes loose at 70 mph and the galley hatch flutters and disintegrates in the buffeting air behind the trailer.

    #1306

    jctownsley
    Participant

    Faith999, I had the same issue with my springs after a few weeks use. CLC offered to replace them or issue me a gift card for replacing them myself. I ordered the next set up from Attwood and they are great! Sounds like the issue is the weight of the epoxy. CLC’s camper was fine with those gas springs, but we have more epoxy (weight) on ours.

    #1307

    faithie999
    Participant

    jctownsley:  I’m going to go with the 30# force units.

    friz:  let us know what you end up with, and where you sourced them from.  pins as a belt-and-suspenders approach will keep me from looking in the rear-view mirror every 30 seconds.

    thanks

    ken

    • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  faithie999.
    #1309

    szerby
    Participant

    I have the same issue, I’m dying to hear what Atwood tells you.

    i found this hasp which fits perfect but the hatch now doesn’t go up as high as it should.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMBYR6

    #1310

    faithie999
    Participant

    Attwood was very responsive, but the bottom line is that the user/builder/contractor/etc is responsible for design and sizing.  they didn’t address my question as to why the piston relaxes 2″ now rather than the 1″ originally.  in fairness it was 10-15F cooler the other day than it was when I originally installed, so the ideal gas law would predict some lesser degree of pressure exerted by the piston at lower temps.

    CLC determined that 20# force was sufficient, and I assume they were reluctant to oversize the force since the tradeoff is more opening force = more closing force on the hinges.

    having said that, I believe 30# gas springs are desirable over the 20# ones supplied.

    ken

     

    #1311

    mpilone
    Participant

    Thanks for looking into it, Ken. What’s your plan now? Are you going to ask CLC to swap out the 20# for 30 or order them on your own and compare? Looks like they are going for around $30 a set (assuming ATT-SL34305 from https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11963 are the right model).

    I definitely see the issue with the heavier hasp @szerby mentioned but I’m also concerned about the 30# pistons putting extra strain on the hinges and possibly lifting the hatch off the gutter gasket.

    -mike

    #1312

    faithie999
    Participant

    mike–send me an email at        faithie999      at      hotmail     dot     com

     

    #1322

    szerby
    Participant

    I bought 30# lifts from Amazon.  20 inch 30 lbs Gas Prop Lift Spring Rod Strut Heavy Duty Tool Box Lid Top RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3H2QZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_p-MVzb5HMYTEE

    The hatch worked fine after just replacing one, so a 25# set would be perfect if such a thing exisited.  I replaced both, and the hatch is very happy to rise up, and works great.

    #1407

    mpilone
    Participant

    Back to the original topic of hasps, has anyone tried a truck cap handle/cam like this one: http://amzn.to/2xNNHQY

    It would work similar to @bill‘s use of the cam locks but give you a handle that matches the style of the door handles. In fact you could use a door handle here as well with just the cam lock lever and no rods. I did a quick search but I couldn’t find where CLC sourced the original handles from.

    My hatch has a bit of spring in the middle so I think a single handle/cam in the center would be enough to keep it snug. The trick would be getting the locking block in the right place on the inside. I don’t know how Bill did that… twice 🙂

    -mike

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