friz

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Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 156 total)
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  • in reply to: Door fit #537
    friz
    Participant

    I’m with you Eric. I’m pretty sure that I got them close enough not to leak, but I doubt they will be pretty.

    in reply to: Door fit #535
    friz
    Participant

    Probably a frame with some depth around the entire perimeter of the door would have been the best solution. my trailing edge bottom also has a bow in it that will need to be corrected. I figure, I will throw wood at the issue until i get something that works. I too have the floor stiffeners left over to play with.

    in reply to: Door fit #532
    friz
    Participant

    I was thinking the same thing

    in reply to: Door fit #529
    friz
    Participant

    I have yet to try it with the seal installed. I only did the mod on one side in case I need to go further. I’ll post when I know something.

    in reply to: final detail items #522
    friz
    Participant

    I have been on ebay all week getting the bits and pieces I need for my super simple 12v system. A couple items will be on the slow boat from China, so I’m trying to plan ahead a bit.

    in reply to: Door hitting eyebrow #520
    friz
    Participant

    I am considering leaving them off on mine. My fear is that they will get torn up in use anyway.

    in reply to: Hatch Clasp #513
    friz
    Participant

    Very cool! Now you need to do door latches to match.

    in reply to: Door fit #507
    friz
    Participant

    I found the issue with my door ”relaxing”. The door skin has actually warped the stiffener. I went ahead and cut the stiffener and applied a layer of glass to reinforce it. We will see if this works.

    in reply to: Bulkhead cut out for electrical panel #483
    friz
    Participant

    Let me throw this out there for those that don’t need much electrical. I don’t plan on having anything mounted in my galley wall. I want that entire space for storage. I plan to mount my battery, fuse block, and ground bus to my trailer frame. and have my switch/outlet panel in a pod under my shelf. my wiring will come through the floor in front of the bulkhead at the edge of the floor and be tucked behind the headliner.

    in reply to: Door fit #465
    friz
    Participant

    My hope for doors without a strap may not be possible. My doors continues to relax over time. The bottom front is now protruding about 3/8th inch. I may try to cut the stiffener at the joint, glue and reinforce with glass. I’ll keep you all posted.

    in reply to: Upper galley gutter gap #464
    friz
    Participant

    I just stuffed mine full of thickened epoxy. I’m pretty sure my fillet was able to accomplish this with out the use of performance enhancing drugs.

    in reply to: Door fit #461
    friz
    Participant

    I made an angle finder with two rulers and a clamp and fastidiously checked the angle of the opening against the doors as I was sanding the stiffener into shape. After I glued and clamped the door, I checked the angle of the rear of the door and found it to be still sprung open a bit. That’s why you see the tape stretched over the bucket to the rear corners. Remarkably, the stiffener seems to be able to hold the shape of the front and rear edges.

    in reply to: Door fit #449
    friz
    Participant

    I also want to mention that I had to get really aggressive in removing material from the door stiffener to match the angle of the door to the opening. My doors had sprung open a bunch.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by friz.
    in reply to: clc's fan #447
    friz
    Participant

    I am tempted to cut the flange off, let the bottom rest against the bezel, and glue it in with a fillet of silicone.

    in reply to: Door fit #446
    friz
    Participant

    Resizing seemed to help

Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 156 total)