December 21, 2017 at 6:32 pm #1497
Yay! My teardrop kit finished arriving today. I will post build updates here.
The delivery guy was super excited when I showed him what he had delivered and told me about how his metal camper leaks whenever it rains. So I sent him home with my CLC catalog. Maybe he will show up here as a fellow builder. Rock on, delivery guy!December 28, 2017 at 3:38 pm #1512
Too cold for epoxy, but screws still work! It’s going to be tight in here.December 29, 2017 at 12:10 am #1515
I was at this stage last January. Build a tent out of plastic sheeting and use a space heater (fan, not radiator) to keep the temperature up to 70F or so. I got fancy with an Omega controller and solid state relays and platinum RTD sensors, but the thermostat built into the heater should be more than sufficient. I was monitoring the temperature remotely and needed to see the display via webcam because I’m a geek.December 30, 2017 at 12:02 pm #1518
I’ve just finished the bottom and I am about ready to flip it over and set it on the trailer. It’s been a lot of fun so far, I hope you’ll enjoy the process just as much as the rest of us.
So, I’ve found that the ‘lamp trick’ described on CLC’s website (and I think in the manual) works quite well also. Though, for the ‘bigger’ jobs obviously not so much. I recently pulled out the forced air propane heater torpedo thing to get my space up to a ‘workable’ temperature due to the ridiculously cold weather. Luckily, my space is so small it only takes about 30-45 minutes to take it from 50F to ~80F. It seems to hold out for about 6-8 hours while it is in the 30’s outside before I have to run it again. I also sealed off any small gaps around doors in the garage. That’s helped probably more than I realize. I have a carbon monoxide alarm and keep the heater isolated/away from everything else in the garage to keep things ‘safe’, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this approach, but I had to paint the bottom when it in the 20’s outside because I wanted to keep to my schedule.
So, one thing I don’t see discussed much is the concern for outgassing when dealing with fluctuating temperatures. I unfortunately, thought I had beat it, but after the fill coats were laid, I noticed quite a few areas where outgassing had occurred. If I were to do it all over again, I think I’d do the following.
- warm space
- allow to cool for an hour or more
- only lay one layer of glass at a time
I think by following that, you’d be able to avoid outgassing because the wood would be ‘cooling’ and no longer expelling gas/air. (I would only start epoxying the big jobs as the temperature is falling and I know the wood temp is at least the same as the ambient.) And then you’d also have less glass to saturate and therefore less chance of missing any spots and under saturating. Just my two cents.
Also, keep or store your resin/hardener in a ‘warm-ish’ place. The difference between resin at 65 and 70 is night and day in my opinion. It definitely has had an impact on how easy it is to mix and work into the glass. Granted, it will also affect to some degree your ‘work time’ with it. But small batches helps with that. 😉
Good luck, I hope to see more pictures as you make progress.January 5, 2018 at 4:26 pm #1551
My kitchen floor is warm enough for epoxy. I will, of course, need to get a heating solution for the garage for the next epoxy steps.January 5, 2018 at 7:45 pm #1554
Robinson Wire Twister, inherited from my grandfather who built experimental aircraft. This tool is intended for twisting wire between drilled bolt heads to stop safety-critical bolts from unscrewing in harsh vibration environments such as aircraft (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire). It also works great for twisting the copper wire stitches as loosely or as tightly as needed.January 5, 2018 at 8:15 pm #1555
a very neat tool!!
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