January 3, 2017 at 1:43 am #427
The fan that is supplied with the fan kit has a high profile base – the one pictured in the manual and on CLC’s demo teardrop has a nicer low profile base – anyone know if you can buy a replacement base for the Fan-Tastic? the high profile base is sorta ugly how high it sticks up….January 4, 2017 at 1:51 pm #431JakeMParticipant
I bought my fan from amazon, but we must have ended up with the same one because I thought the same thing. But, after a few days I got used to the look of it and I forgot about it.January 4, 2017 at 2:44 pm #432
I would guess that John was able to disassemble his fan and mount it with the flange on the inside. Lower profile but maybe harder to get a good seal against the elements.January 4, 2017 at 2:46 pm #433
Nope. I was wrong. Flange is on the outside. Maybe he modified his fan?January 7, 2017 at 6:25 pm #435
well, there’s also the problem that the vent with the high profile base is too high if you ever intend to install the roof racks…January 7, 2017 at 8:57 pm #436EricParticipant
No, its not too high for roof racks. I have just installed both fan hatch and racks (both purchased from CLC). There is however only 3/8″ -1/2″ clearance between the center of the hatch and a straight line between the tops of the load bars. If a kayak is dead center over the hatch, the hatch needs to stay closed. Alternatively if one has kayaks on Autoloaders (on their side, one each side, for example) the hatch should be more functional without removing kayaks.January 10, 2017 at 12:17 pm #437
I just finished my fan opening last night and dropped the fan in. More annoying then the height outside is how it recesses the controls above the bezel. I may be in the market for a replacement.January 10, 2017 at 3:04 pm #438January 11, 2017 at 4:39 pm #440derek0Participant
Hmmm…looks like maybe we shouldn’t glue the 2 hatch spacers together. That way at least the controls won’t be recessed beneath (above) the hatch flange trim.
Fritz, do you think your fit will allow for unencumbered control of the dome elevator knob?January 11, 2017 at 5:43 pm #441
I thought about that. I plan to install the headliner kit, and it appears to tuck under the bezel. I’m afraid loosing that spacer may mess up the headliner install. Operating the controls will be possible, just knuckle busters.
January 12, 2017 at 10:22 am #443cpieperParticipant
- This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by friz.
Could the inner spacer be chamfered (or rounded) with a router and then the opening in the bezel enlarged a bit? That might ease the knuckle busting… I don’t have my fan yet, so I can’t perfectly visualize whether or not this is feasible. Thoughts?January 12, 2017 at 2:09 pm #447
I am tempted to cut the flange off, let the bottom rest against the bezel, and glue it in with a fillet of silicone.February 17, 2017 at 9:26 pm #616SOMDTDParticipant
CLC’s vendor changed the fan flange but kept the part number the same. They contacted the vendor and are getting the older, lower profile fans in for new orders next week. If you haven’t installed the fan I would contact CLC and ask them about exchanging it, if it is an issue for you.March 10, 2017 at 1:41 pm #647eschleppParticipant
I returned my unused high profile fan to CLC for the correct low profile fan. If you are going to do this save your original fan box. I did not and had to whine quite a bit for them to accept it in return. That being said, in the usual CLC style, they respected my request and rationale and sent the right unit.March 10, 2017 at 9:50 pm #648
do you think the will take my used, previously glued, previously painted fan back?? =)
seriously though – it was their mistake.. shouldn’t have shipped those high profile fans out in the first place.
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