January 12, 2017 at 1:03 pm #444
I want to show you all some pictures of my door fit. My goal is to not have to use the strap pulling the top and bottom together.
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For some reason your server does not like any of my pictures showing the final fit. I posted the above jiberish to help your IT guy solve the issue. You all can see the pics on my build thread at TNTTT.comJanuary 12, 2017 at 1:07 pm #445January 12, 2017 at 1:08 pm #446
Resizing seemed to helpJanuary 12, 2017 at 3:30 pm #449
I also want to mention that I had to get really aggressive in removing material from the door stiffener to match the angle of the door to the opening. My doors had sprung open a bunch.
January 13, 2017 at 2:50 pm #460derek0Participant
- This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by friz.
Well, Fritz, it looks perfect in the last photo. Great work! Now, how did you do it? Can the door stiffener really remove the “sprung”-factor by itself. My doors are practically flat (and pretty warped to boot) and I am dubious about getting a good fit. In my case, gluing the sills to the doors helped with the warping – I am hoping the attaching the windows will make it near perfect – but putting the correct angle back at the panel 3 and 4 junction seems to require a LOT of force. To clarify: are you saying that you ground the correct angle out of the door stiffener and muscled the door into position with clamps and tape? It seems like maybe there could be a better design for the door stiffener that would spread the force out over more of the seam between the two panels.January 13, 2017 at 3:28 pm #461
I made an angle finder with two rulers and a clamp and fastidiously checked the angle of the opening against the doors as I was sanding the stiffener into shape. After I glued and clamped the door, I checked the angle of the rear of the door and found it to be still sprung open a bit. That’s why you see the tape stretched over the bucket to the rear corners. Remarkably, the stiffener seems to be able to hold the shape of the front and rear edges.January 13, 2017 at 4:19 pm #462derek0Participant
Awesome, Fritz! Thanks for the tips.January 20, 2017 at 12:33 pm #465
My hope for doors without a strap may not be possible. My doors continues to relax over time. The bottom front is now protruding about 3/8th inch. I may try to cut the stiffener at the joint, glue and reinforce with glass. I’ll keep you all posted.January 30, 2017 at 12:52 pm #507
I found the issue with my door ”relaxing”. The door skin has actually warped the stiffener. I went ahead and cut the stiffener and applied a layer of glass to reinforce it. We will see if this works.February 3, 2017 at 12:35 pm #527EricParticipant
There is another issue that happens when you close the door against the seal. The seal causes the door to bow out 1) between the hinges and 2) at the lower forward corner. Although I haven’t tried it yet, #1 can be corrected with a stiffener/strongback along the inside of the hinge side of the door between the hinges. #2 is a tougher nut to crack and may require cutting the stiffenermand glassing over. How did thatmwork out Fritz and have you tried closing your doors with the seal installed, actuating rods engaged with the fairleadsncorrectly shimmed aand the cam at the right level so as to engage the door frame (thus lining up the entire rear edge of the door with the shell. Problems 1 and 2 may diminish with foam compression, but for now I am living with them.February 3, 2017 at 12:50 pm #528tomtntParticipant
i also have problem 2 that you described due to the sealing foam material: the lower forward corner bows out.. but only on 1 door.. other door lines up pretty well… I did not use the strap material on the inside – didn’t like the look and didn’t think it would help with this particular problem.February 3, 2017 at 1:02 pm #529
I have yet to try it with the seal installed. I only did the mod on one side in case I need to go further. I’ll post when I know something.February 3, 2017 at 1:16 pm #530EricParticipant
I didn’t use or like the straps either; don’t think they will help problem 2. I also don’t think changing the angle at the door stiffener will make much difference. I am considering installing the straps from the lower FORWARD door corner to the upper FORWARD corner, combined with the strongback stiffener to address problem # 1. A good material for the stiffener would be the trailer bunks that were not used on my TTrailed.The window sill and the window itself do not provide enough stiffness to the forward door edge between the hinges when compressed against the foam. It is straight when the doors are open.February 3, 2017 at 2:16 pm #531Bob D.Participant
I’m wondering if it might be a good idea to glass the inside of the door before it’s cut out.February 3, 2017 at 2:25 pm #532
I was thinking the same thing
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