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Honestly, I’d love to have a copy as well! Following the email convention above:
@tpkrause86 Hey how’d it turn out. Post some pictures if you can. I’m also thinking of doing the same — probably this weekend. Though, I was considering fiberglassing the other side of the galley flat instead.
@glcmranger you wouldn’t happen to have a link to the product you used? Are you building the cargo carrier too?
Thanks, Mike. I saw those posts. Some good examples in there. Wondering if other builders have experience since then with other options.
@LSaupe thanks for sharing your experience and the link to the article. I’ll admit I wasn’t following the over/underslung language in previous posts.
Hi folks, reopening this thread!
I’m likely to purchase the Trailex with 12″ wheels. But 12″ wheels seem SOOO small. What am I missing? I’m not looking to make the camper into some offroad ADV rig, but 12″? Has anyone used a trailer that has a suspension and “real” wheels/tires?
Thanks for your thoughts!
John
@adamdj the way I learned from CLC was to wait for the layer of epoxy to dry until it is no longer sticky to the touch…then apply another layer. If you wait longer than a day or two you should give it a light sanding before the next layer of epoxy.
Again, so much of this depends on temperature. I just put down some fiberglass and the first fill coat of epoxy on a part of the Integrated Cargo Carrier (ICC). It’s in the 40s here in Chicago. It will be tacky well into the early hours of tomorrow morning. But if it’s 60+ out and sunny it’s likely to “dry” in about 4 hours or so — at that point I’m personally comfortable laying down another layer of glue.
In my experience, it’s best to keep adding light layers of epoxy until the texture disappears. It will disappear. So much depends on how light/thick you’re laying it on. Also, as in everything in the epoxy world, so much depends on temperature.
My advice is to keep rolling on light layers of epoxy until the texture disappears. Now, in my experience, there are always a couple of spots that for some reason are more stubborn than others. Keep at it!
John in Chicago
@okoume_overland on Instagram
That makes total sense, @scoop. Not sure I would have gotten to that conclusion on the drawer pucks for a while yet! Low friction tape work well?
Thanks, @johannes, I pretty much just went for it. Borrowed my buddy’s brand new in box (but over 10 years old) black and decker router. Threw a 1/2″ round-over bit into it and went to town. It worked out okay!
Glassing the bottom of the ICC today…
@scoop – tell me more about having to move the puck. Not sure I can visualize why you would need to do this after shaving the runners…
You know, in retrospect, some fiberglass tape maybe an inch wide on those seems with unthickened epoxy might be a much stronger option. And, the edges of the tape would sand down nicely I think. The fillets, now hardened, are like cement.
Thanks, man. I think I’ll have to shave down the “runners” (i don’t know if they’re called that) on the bottom of the drawers. The fit is extremely tight. I don’t think I did anything “wrong” but rather it’s just time to futz a little to get them to work. This morning I woke up thinking about the layers of expoxy and varnish/paint. It’s only going to build up the surfaces even higher!
John in Chicago
@okoume_overland (instagram)
