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Thanks, @johannes, for the great explanation. Part of what I’m considering is a 180 or 270 awning — and we’re tall people. I’m 6’4″ and my wife is 6″. So I theoretically want some headroom under whatever awning I mount to the roof rack.
I have Thule square bars already from a previous application. So I don’t need the “R” version of the foot pack(s). So, I’m sort of deciding between 8″ and 11″.
By the way, the camper with ANY roof rack will not fit in my garage. So I’m looking at mounting this gear before a trip — or keeping the camper outside under some kind of cover.
John in Chicago
I added side-latches — and haven’t regretted them at all. In fact, I’ve grown to love knowing the hatch won’t open by itself while being towed. Sure it’s overkill, but I think they’re a good move.
- This reply was modified 3 weeks, 3 days ago by wudboatVT.
These horrible things. But incredibly adjustable. Still deciding:
I like where you’re headed – a bit beyond my engineering abilities i think!
@pandron – i actually have latches being delivered today to hold down the edges. Also not a fan, but at this point it’s just endless tweaking to get this sucker as water tight as possible.October 26, 2020 at 1:19 pm in reply to: Gap in front middle compartment between ICC and camper #3247
Honestly, I’ve just left it alone. I use that space for skis too.It might pick up some water, but if you have a tongue storage box in front of it there shouldn’t be much.
I’m more worried about the camper door and ICC side hatch doors. I just can’t get them water tight-ish.
…so the take away is, “leaks.” Yeah, it won’t be perfect, I get that. The sump pump suggestion is maybe the best thing I’ve heard on this forum! In the meantime, I’ll still be on the search for the “perfect” gasket/edging/piece of rubber.
As for the damn doors, I nearly lost my #$#@% mind a couple of weeks ago. I have one door pretty tight, the other rattles more than it should. The handle hardware must be cheap tin.
The galley hatch and doors are definitely the weakest parts of the product design. But I still love it!!
…and make sure you stir the can of Rust-Oleum very well before you use it!
I used that Rust0-Oleum product on the bottom of my ICC and the bottom of the tongue box. It’s a “just okay” product. It does what it says, but is only as good as the number of coats you use. I think I put 3 coats on the bottom of my ICC. It could still use more. TIP: Use a brush to apply this stuff. The roller — at least the CLC yellow ones we all know and love — won’t work. Stick with a brush and apply LIBERALLY and you’ll be all set.
That said, I’ve heard good things about the Raptor bed liner. As far as I know, it must be sprayed on (there are kits that include the right sprayer, etc) and it is definitely more expensive than Rust-Oleum.
I have some pictures here: @okoume_overland on Instagram.
Have fun! — John in Chicago
What type and size of door edge trim did you find that worked?
Oh, I think I missed the part about the foam. I knew there was the large gasket, but hadn’t seen about the weatherstripping you have there in the manual. Thanks for the tip. It’s pretty obvious now, I guess! Moving on…
Love it! Congratulations.
Agreed. Start with the ICC. However, it had its own challenges. Building the drawers is not a problem, but I had some issues fitting them into the ICC. Lesson learned = start with extremely thin fillets! You’ll get lot of good practice doing the whole stitch and glue thing! One more tip: make sure you build the box (and the camper too) on something that is absolutely flat.
John in Chicago
@szerby what weatherstripping did you use? Can you share the size and maybe a link?
I’m looking at these pictures again. What hardware did you use on the galley hatch? Two latches and a handle latch in the middle?