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Friz, I like that accronym TDCM i’ve been piecing together a “home automation” system for the TD using a pcduino (arduino type control board) and OpenHAB automation software. The system will include media center capability and complete electrical system controls via a touch screen monitor.
I’d also like to include WiFi with this system and monitor trailer backup and side cameras from my phone while driving. The down side with all these nifty gadgets is the need for more and more battery power. If only I could find a good LiFePo4 Battery option with 100Ah that wont break the bank
Friz, Please let us know when you start working on your TDCM again, maybe we can collaborate.
Electrical systems can get complicated and very dangerous. If you haven’t purchased any batteries or components other than lights and fans, than a simple plug an play solution may be a good idea for you.
Look into something like a Goal Zero Yeti 400 portable power station. Then all you would need to do is wire your lights to a 12v 6mm 10amp port and the roof vent fan to the 12v car port.
A power pack like the Goal Zero Yeti can be charged and run off of shore power or solar as well.
If you still prefer to go the more complicated route then let me know the exact electrical specs of all the components you want to run (voltages and amps), and I can maybe help your further.
Faithie the shear strength of my proposed solution will easily hold the 60 lb. battery. If you have a piece of some regular scrap 3/8″ plywood about the size of the unsupported section of the bulkhead laying around you could test it first.
Also, since you mentioned your battery was not secured to the galley floor, it is likely that the bouncing of the trailer during travels caused the battery to hop, turning a static load of 60 lbs into a dynamic load hammering on the galley floor.
If you decide to make a floor inside the galley module for the battery may i suggest going with your initial idea of a “1×1 stiffener” on the under side of the module floor screwed & glued into the galley module sides. Don’t forget to take pictures if you can, hopefully we can help prevent this from happening to more people in the future.
Was your battery secured to the galley floor or just resting on it? This unfortunately seems to be a recurring problem.
If you don’t mind a few bolt heads on the cab side of the bulkhead wall or can hide them behind a TV screen, I would recommend a simple solution by bolting it directly to the bulkhead with a bolt in battery box. (See Image Below)
If you have the money Lithium is a great choice. There are many more reasons Lithium is superior besides being 1/3 the weight.
https://www.powertechsystems.eu/home/tech-corner/lithium-ion-battery-advantages/
Have you calculated your required Amp hours? If you really do need a 12v 100AH battery it’s likely a Lithium battery would cost you $600-$800
Thanks, I’m glad you like the design. I will be keeping a detailed video blog of the build once I start. To answer your question the trailer is a modified 5’x8′ Ironton trailer. It’s an inexpensive bolt together trailer. I plan to shorten the 8′ sides of the trailer, then notch and bend the corner to match the CLC base shape which is continued through to the base storage unit.
For propane I plan to just use 14oz camping containers and a single burner stove. If later I decide I need more than a few camping tanks I will get a Worthington 299494 6-pound aluminum propane cylinder. These are narrow enough to fit in the base storage during transportation.
It sounds like you are going with the standard #20-30 propane tanks. For those I would recommend keeping the tank/s on the tongue of the trailer inside a Camco propane cover. The covers look nice and will help protect your tanks. Just remember to keep them away from ignition sources including electrical systems, and in well ventilated areas.
I’m still in the design phase myself but will be starting construction around the end of next month. Storage in the cab & galley section was a big concern for myself as well. My solution can be seen in the following 3D renders.
I’ve opted for more storage in the cab by cutting two wholes for cabinets on either side of the bulkhead leading into the galley space which will be enclosed with a custom built “galley module”. Similar to the galley module most of my electronic components (sans batteries) will be housed between the cabinet sections.
Batteries, secondary storage as well as a 10-18 gallon water take will be in the custom built 8″ base unit. The base unit will be a similar Okoume ply with fiberglass outer shell around hardwood framing. The underside will have an additional layer of Line-X Spray (truck bed liner) to prevent wear and tear from road conditions. Doors leading into the base storage unit will have rubber weather stripping and keyed handles. I’m also playing around with the idea of a 2-toned look with the bottom painted to match my tow vehicle.
