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I haven’t bought batteries, but I have the same question. At this point, I plan to buy one Battleborn and possibly add a second if I’m happy with it.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/
I’ll start with 200 watts of solar and possibly add another 100 watts with a second battery. My goal is one kwh/day with four days in reserve at half that consumption, supporting a small fridge, small electronics throughout the day and possibly a doghouse AC. I plan to spend weeks at a time in the camper while working online. To do it in the summer, I’ll likely need the second battery to support the AC.
I applied two layers to the top last weekend and was satisfied with the result. After starting, I realized that small batches of epoxy (15 squirts for me) permitted me to saturate the layers without rushing. I needed hours to finish anyway, and I suspect that applying a single layer would have been easier, so if I had it to do over, I’d try the approach they use in the class.
I had one small bubble along the edge that I could have avoided easily if I had noticed it. I may sand it, but I could also fill it with epoxy when glassing the bottom later. I’m out of town this week and next, so I’ll finish glassing the shell next weekend. My build is proceeding very slowly, but it’s proceeding. I originally hoped to finish in September, but October seems more realistic now.
You’re applying the two layers of fiberglass on the top in two steps, or are you applying two layers followed by a third layer?
Very nice, thanks.
My Saved for Later list is already ginormous, but this one definitely belongs on it.
Agreed. It can be ducted, but the ducts aren’t included. Don’t know about campground restrictions, but one of the retailers claims 65 decibels.
This appears to be the manufacturer of the 1400 BTU AC.
http://shop.houndheater.com/Hounditioner-HD1001.htm
And here’s a short youtube about it.
Page 96 of the manual has a picture of the #4 panel extending past the quarter panel by a quarter inch or so, with the lid overhanging a similar gap. The extension is also apparent on a picture on p. 189, so everything about the quarters seems kosher. Apparently, CLC didn’t remove this bit of the #4 panel before glassing the shell.
I measured the bottom and shell, and the fit seems manageable as the quarters are attached, with inside corner to insider corner of the panel #4 at the top and inside corner to insider corner of the flat at the bottom. My #4 panel extends about a quarter inch beyond the quarter panel on the right (pictured above) and about an eight of an inch on the left. Removing this excess #4 with a sander after gluing the quarters doesn’t seem to be a problem, so I’ll glue the quarters this afternoon if I don’t hear more from the forum.
The guy taking a sledge hammer to his climateright is definitely not encouraging, but the specs are right.
Here’s the same, 1400 BTU air conditioner (linked above) for dog houses for $299:
This AC is a lot smaller and lighter than the climateright, and it uses significantly less power. The design seems simpler (doesn’t heat and has no wireless remote), which could be a plus. This pet-discount-store ad claims that the AC cools up to 90 cu. ft. The ad at the other site says 40 cu. ft. (with provisos about insulation). Even 90 cu. ft. is less than the volume of the camper, but these estimates presumably assume a poorly insulated space.
1400 BTU sounds about right for the camper. A typical 5000 BTU window unit claims to cool a 150 sq. ft. room or around 1200 cu. ft. The camper is closer to 150 cu. ft.
Thanks, Cat. The transom fits as the quarter panels are attached now, and the bottom presumably fits since the tops of all panels fit together at the top as prescribed, but I have realigned my quarters a bit. The top edge now aligns with the #4 panel, inside corner to inside corner, like the other panel edges. The bottom still aligns with the flat as pictured above, so it’s far from inside corner to inside corner with the #4 panel, but I see no way to avoid it if the quarter is glued to the flat. This part of the manual needs more detail.
I’ll assemble my bottom today but wait for more feedback before gluing the quarter panels.
I thought about filling the riser recesses, but I don’t have a router and decided, perhaps impulsively, to chisel/saw/sand to remove the flat and flip it over. I acted hastily throughout. I don’t need to hurry. That’s the lesson I need to learn. I could have avoided this mess if I had only waited long enough for mpilone’s post. Instead, I tried a stitch, and it seemed O.K., so I plowed ahead.
The deed wasn’t pleasant or pretty, but it’s done now. The flat wasn’t difficult to clean up. Removing the thickened epoxy from the shell was, and I didn’t remove 100% of it, but if the new fillet adheres well enough the remains of the old one, I’m O.K.
I posted this question and then didn’t wait for the replies, because I wanted to finish my bottom installation this weekend.
A stitch helped at lot, but yes, I glued the flat in upside down. Don’t know what I was thinking, but I obviously didn’t read the manual carefully enough at this point. The gutter is crucial for a water tight fit, so I must do something. I need to cut it out and turn it over somehow. I’m not a happy camper at the moment. What a disaster. I won’t be finishing the bottom this weekend anyway.
Thanks, Nest. The three step approach makes a lot of sense, I’ll definitely tape the cloth around the edge. Strands of cloth are a pain.
Here’s an even smaller AC designed for dog houses. It’s 1400 BTUs. Still costs $399, but the power consumption is a little better, 350 watts.
Apparently, dog house air conditioners are a thing …
One guy’s experience with the Climateright AC:
