Forum Replies Created
Just finished tonight (started in March), except for the Galley Module and wiring! Forum won’t let me post more than one picture per post, so will follow up with a couple more:
And for reference, this is the lid BEFORE the fix so you know what I was dealing with:
And the exterior after the fix:
- This reply was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by pandron.
Here’s a picture of my fix:
After digging into the Warped Galley Lid post I came across @geraldbaranski ‘s solution to the edges of the lid popping up and decided to replicate it. It seems like the least obtrusive solution (for the exterior at least) that I’ve seen.
When I try to add a picture my post gets deleted, so I’ll try to describe. I used 1/8″ Dyneema cord (doesn’t stretch and super-easy to splice), with some turnbuckles, and some thru-bolted pad eyes. It was pretty hard to guess how the wood would bend so I did some guessing. I put a lower string a couple inches higher and inboard than where @geraldbaranski did hoping I could get away with just one string. It wasn’t quite enough so I added a second near where the lid stiffener terminates. In hindsight I would position the lower string’s pad-eyes about 2″ farther outboard and aft, and the uppers about 1″ father outboard (basically exactly where @geraldbaranski did). That would allow for slightly lower tension in the strings, but I would still need the second upper string for my situation. Anyway, it seems to work!
I also ordered this weather stripping off McMaster that I plan to use instead of the 7/16″ foam that came with the kit: https://www.mcmaster.com/93085K566/
Note: McMaster has an amazing array of weather stripping (and edge guard) options that you can filter by size! I chose this one because it has a little flap that by sticks out. My hope is positioning that flap towards the outside it might drip the water down into the gutter.
I just found this post:
Some clever solutions to the problem. Wished I had added a layer of glass to the inside face of the galley hatch (like I did with the doors). Would have made it much stiffer.
Well, the engineering involved would mostly be careful measuring and connecting a wire to the door latch. The catch I had in mind was this one:
The risk of this setup is that if the wire comes undone (or I close the hatch before connecting the wire, for example while installing the catch) then the lid will be stuck closed (forever?).
Where would you mount those? On the outside sides of the lid I presume?
<p style=”text-align: left;”>@wudboatVT What kind of latches are you going with? I’m considering doing some elbow catches from the inside which would be pressed down to latch from the outside, and then released from the inside when rotating the galley handle T (I installed one of the door handles as the galley handle latch).</p>
Something like so:
@tal Clever idea with the plywood cushion… I’m 6’2″ also, so will consider doing that mod.
As for the galley hatch, we’re in the final throws of finishing up our teardrop. Our galley hatch lays down perfectly on the weather gasket and I feel like we wouldn’t even need the 7/16″ foam strip to get a good seal… HOWEVER, once I lock in the gas springs, the pressure from the springs on the hatch bows it up, and when closed there is now a 1/2″ gap that I can look through on each side. I can actually see from one side of the camper all the way out the other side. So I see the problem as being that the hatch is basically not rigid enough longitudinally to handle the pressure of the gas springs.
I’m at a bit of a loss on how to fix it. Yes, adding the 7/16″ foam strip will fill the gap, but it won’t look very nice, and it sounds like it probably won’t keep the water out. I’m half-tempted to add two longitudinal stiffeners to the lid, but man, getting the right curved shape would be nearly impossible. So right now I’m leaning towards adding two latches about halfway up either side of the hatch to hold the edges down. Not a huge fan of that idea either, but…