WA State Rules

[ecossett82]

Hi, I’m Edward, longtime lurker of CLC teardrop, and builder of several CLC cocktail kits.

In WA you can goto the state patrol to get the RV ID for the trailer. However, if you ever plan on selling it it takes being examined by the Washington State Department of Labor and Industries (L&I) first.

Recommended sequence is this:
1) Send plans and exam fee (once could count for an entire class)
2) Build trailer
3) Have inspection before putting any headliner or interior walls in.
3) Finish build and final inspection

If anyone wants, I can send an email with the QA forms used by inspectors (including for checking plans), trailer inspection points including torque and other requirements.

The biggest hurdle seems to be getting a copy of RVAI DC ANSI Code.

Here is what is required to be on plans submitted (extra stuff can be hand drawn in):

For typical home built RV’s please see the following for some basic criteria, please identify on the plans the following information:

·         The plan conforms to the NFPA 1192 – 2015, NEC 2014 & ANSI/RVIA 12V – 2014 editions.

·         Please place a 5 B:C rated extinguisher within 24 inches of the door on the ditch side of the unit. (for trailer units)(10 B:C for Motorhomes)

·         Please located a combination CO/Smoke detector.  Please be sure that it is rated for RV’s.

·         Please locate the LP detector if using LP in the common area.

·         Please indicate the size of the doors.

·         If the unit does not have a door on each side (i.e. tear drop) an escape window meeting a minimum of a 22”x17” ellipse shall be on an adjacent side other than the door.  If you need clarification please contact us.

·         Please identify on the plan a location for the insignia (typically near the main door, ditch side)

·         Please identify the location of the vin number (typically on the tongue area)

·         Please identify the battery location and note that it is in an approved container that is vented.

·         Please label the pig tail connector and indicated the 12V wire system schematically.

·         Please indicated the overall size of the trailer (do not include the tongue).  Length & Width

·         Please review the remaining code information identified by the systems that are being installed.

The main standard for systems and life safety items is the NFPA 1192 – 2015 edition – Standard on Recreational Vehicles (this can be viewed online free per below or purchased on RVIA’s website at the following link:  http://www.rvia.org/?ESID= store&Dept=CODES ) (NOTE: There are others that sale this as well and by no means is this promoting RVIA as a single source.)

·         The electrical code that RV’s are reviewed under is the NFPA 70 NEC 2014 – Article 551 – National Electrical Code (Article 551 – Recreational Vehicles)

·         Also see NEC 2014 – Article 310 table 310.15(B)(16).  The first column 60 degree C (140 degree F) copper wire for amperage of circuit breaker as related to the AWG (size) of wire.

·         You can access NFPA documents online free at: http://www.nfpa.org/ .  You can sign up for a free online profile to access web viewable code sections.  Please be sure to select the appropriate code sections and year of the code section that is applicable.

·         For low voltage the code used is ANSI/RVIA 12V – 2011 or 2014 Edition (either is acceptable) – The ANSI/RVIA 12V Standard for Low Voltage Systems in Conversion and Recreational Vehicles 2011 or 2014 Edition.  This would need to be purchased and can be found on RVIA’s website at the following link:

http://www.rvia.org/?ESID= store&Dept=CODES  (NOTE: There are others that sale this as well and by no means is this promoting RVIA as a single source.)

[jaceve98]

Sorry this is unrelated, but I don’t know how to get in contact with you otherwise. I was wondering, based off the title of your post, if you lived in Washington or at least on the west coast. I’m thinking about investing in this trailer and was hoping to try and find one fairly close to me that I could check out in person. Let me know if you get this and any information you have.

• This reply was modified 7 years ago by jaceve98.

[jaceve98]

Sorry this is unrelated, but I don’t know how to get in contact with you otherwise. I was wondering, based off the title of your post, if you lived in Washington or at least on the west coast. I’m thinking about investing in this trailer and was hoping to try and find one fairly close to me that I could check out in person. Let me know if you get this and any information you have.

Thanks

– Jack

• This reply was modified 7 years ago by jaceve98.

[ecossett82]

Haven’t built trailer yet, working on plywood obtainment this weekend

[rovineye]

I licensed my teardrop yesterday.

My trailer was already licensed, hence already had a VIN#. If yours doesn’t, sequence will be different.

1. Went to Licensing Agent (where you get your car tabs etc.) Got an inspection request. No cost.

2. Made appointment on line at WSP. My category was OTHER and under comments I put repurposing trailer. If you have no VIN, there is a different category for that. Appointments are a few weeks out, so plan for that. If you have no VIN or registration, you can get a $5 on day Transit Permit to get you ton WSP inspection site.

3. Had teardrop weighed. and movers certified scale. $20, Weighed 520 lbs.

4. Inspection was straight forward, took about 1/2 hour of the one hour allotted. Patrolman measured and looked around teardrop, he was very complimentary. Suggested engraving VIN number under teardrop. I already have it under headliner with photo to show where it is if stolen. Have trailer title, registration (if you have one) and receipt for trailer and shipping docs from CLC for kit or receipt for parts if not from kit.

5. Took Inspection slip to Licensing agent (valid for 60 days), and got new registration and title will be mailer, changing from Trailer to Camper/Teardrop. $31.

That’s all folks!

[Author]

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