Question about the doors
October 26, 2018 at 4:30 pm #2237
Should i add an extra layer of glass on the doors in the begining when panels 3 and 4 go in so they hold the shape later when they get cut out.
I read this and was wondering.October 27, 2018 at 10:04 am #2238
I did not do that (didn’t see post), but in retrospect I think that is an excellent idea.
My approach to avoiding the tensioning strap fix was to beef up the door stiffener and window sill.
Once the doors were cut out I made a temporary mould of the door opening profile from scraps of 2×3 and plywood.
Then clamped the doors to the mold when I glued in the sill and stiffener
“… a man can never be too rich, too good looking, or have too many clamps”
I increased the size of my door stiffener and sill so that they overlap at the panel joint to greatly stiffen the whole door.
So far, so good – the doors are holding their shape.October 27, 2018 at 9:39 pm #2241
Very nice workOctober 30, 2018 at 7:04 pm #2247
I really wish I had seen this before. The doors and the galley hatch both seal well but I cannot help but think that they both “sprung” out of their original shape after being cut from the body.
It is one of those things I always notice but observers still flock.October 30, 2018 at 7:15 pm #2249October 31, 2018 at 11:07 am #2251
I put a layer of fiberglass on the whole inside of the door, extending about 3″ beyond the front, back, top, and bottom of the door as i was worried about the spring back and overall door strength / durability as the single layer of fiberglass didnt make the sides seem all that stiff vs. the top with 2 layers. To save epoxy, I didnt wet out the section over the window which will be cut out. We’ll see if the slight increase in thickness causes any fit problems, but because it also thickens the area around the door, i think the door seals will fit ok. It wasnt all that fun crawling in from the back several times to position the cloth and wet out with epoxy, but it did stiffen the door up as it now has 2 layers of fiberglass (and 3 where the joint is due to the fiberglass tape) separated by plywood core.
We just cut the doors out 2 weeks ago and didnt notice any spring back to the outside. If anything, they might have sprung inwards slightly, which would improve the seal. So I would recommend it (but note we havent fitted the door seals or hinges yet)November 2, 2018 at 9:00 am #2256
This may be the solution to spring back on the doors. Brilliant.November 19, 2018 at 3:15 am #2288
Your solution to the problem of maintaining door shape sounds good. I wondered if you had any further news about the knock-on effects of adding the fibre glass as you did?
I’m going to give it a go, but thought I’d ask if you have any further advice in light of any further work that you may have done on the doors since your post.
AndrwNovember 27, 2018 at 8:31 am #2298
Hi Jon, I’m also waiting for any update on how this has worked out for you. Sounds like a great idea. Did you have to purchase additional material for this?( I am in the early stages of my build) Thanks for postingDecember 10, 2018 at 11:24 pm #2321
Any updates on fiberglassing the inside of the doors?December 11, 2018 at 11:09 am #2322
So, I haven’t heard any update to this but, what I decided to try was laying down fiberglass tape along the inside border of the doors with overlaps at the corners. This took minimum addition material and may help to stiffen and reduce springback. only time will tell. I am still a month away from finding out but will post about it when I know anything
December 16, 2018 at 9:54 pm #2331
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Gerald Baranski. Reason: add photo
If one is going to add a layer of fiberglass or two to the doors in the early stage, would you just add the extra layers to the whole number 3 and number 4 panels? Or would you keep it on just the doors themselves before they are cut out? It seems that might be a difficult thing to do to fiberglass just the middle of the panel but I haven’t started yet.. .December 17, 2018 at 10:40 am #2332
I wonder if this might not make the doors too “straight” stiff. You’d have to take great care to match this to the shell, and yet, you’re still *very early* in the process.
As an example, my hatch was perfectly fitted to the shell when it was separated. But as I added layers of epoxy and later varnish – I didn’t take into account that supported only in the center by the tongue-jack, it would curve the port and starboard sides downward. It turns out this was beneficial, as the port and starboard sides now have increased downward pressure when the hatch hasp is engaged. But the point is, things will change as you add epoxy and varnish layers. You may end up needing increased tension to overcome the added stiffeners.
I’m pretty happy with this minor alteration to the tension strap: http://teardropforum.com/forums/topic/door-tensioning-strap/#post-2310
These clips can provide up to 75 lbs of tension, and are more readily field adjustable. (And easier than adding a layer of glass and fabricating extra stiffeners.)December 17, 2018 at 11:56 am #2333
Thanks! Thats helpful information. I will make a stop to our local REI store and purchase some strap buckles and clips.
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