January 2, 2017 at 5:26 pm #426frizParticipant
I am thinking about buying some hockey pucks off ebay to space my teardrop from my trailer frame. Any downside to this?February 20, 2017 at 7:27 pm #629BoardwalkParticipant
Friz – did you happen to use the hockey pucks? If so, how did they turn out?February 20, 2017 at 8:01 pm #630
I looked under CLC’s demo camper the other day and they seemed to use roughly 3″ diameter pieces of plywood for spacers off the Trailex trailer. Seems hockey pucks would be a perfect solution! Amazon here we come. You’ll need 10 for the cabin and 4 for the younger box, 14 total.March 12, 2017 at 9:20 am #652
I bought a dozen for $20 from Amazon. Used the drill press to drill 1/2″ holes in each one, eyeballed near the center. They are 1″ thick and look to be ideal as Trailex spacers / mounts. I will be mounting onto the trailer very soon and I will report.
DonMarch 16, 2017 at 1:27 am #660
They worked perfect. Recommend, better than plywood.March 16, 2017 at 11:07 am #662frizParticipant
Good to hear. I won’t be mounting mine for a couple weeks yet.March 16, 2017 at 7:33 pm #663
I’ll take pictures and post. They really are ideal, they left a 1/4″ gap between the butt block and the Trailex trailer.
I’d note that CLC did not supply the carriage bolts for the Trailex trailer, they supplied the long bolts needed for the Harbor Freight trailer. I got 5/6 x 3″ bolts (they specified 2 1/2″ bolts) to allow for the 1″ thickness of the pucks. Worked fine.
An important note: Get BOTH 5/16 plain nuts AND 5/16 nylock nuts (stainless). I only used the nylock nuts and stainless washers, and it was a pain in the butt. The carriage bolts don’t “seat” until there is some tension on them and I fought them taking up the “slack”. In hindsight, I would put the plain nuts on first, tighten them up, then follow with the nylocks. Would be MUCH easier.
I have one nylock nut that is stuck, and cannot get it to either tighten up nor will it come off, I think I buggered the thread with the needle nose vice grips I was using to hold the bolt still while taking up the slack. I’ll cut it off with an abrasive disk and do it over, but it’s a pain and doesn’t need to be.March 17, 2017 at 8:59 pm #664
Pics of the hockey puck spacer mounts.March 17, 2017 at 11:21 pm #669EricParticipant
The stuck nylon is because you galled the threads (stainless is prone to that. CCuttingthe nut off is the solution. I had the same problem with the 5/16″ carriage bolts spinning in the 3/4″ hoholesThe solution for me was to lock visegrips onto the head of the bolt inside the trailer and then screw the nylon on until it drew the bolt down against the floor. The visegrips is put on the bolt head just at its lip and spins until it runs into the trailer wall. Why did you have to resort to hockey pucks? CLC sent me 1″thick Starboard discs, cnc cut and predrilled.March 18, 2017 at 2:15 am #670Bob D.Participant
Use a little anti-seize on the threads to prevent galling. I learned about this phenomena the hard way when bolting an ISO flange together. The nut/bolt was still loose on the flange but the nut kept getting tighter even though there was still a lot of travel left. I then tried to back it off and it got even tighter! Had to use a grinder to get the bolt off and started over using a little anti-seize (aka, personnel seeking compound because it gets everywhere).
I think the stainless hardware supplied with the Trailex trailer is aluminum or tin plated to do exactly this without the mess.
-BobMarch 18, 2017 at 12:36 pm #671
My kit had the trailer bunks and hardware for using apparently the Harbor Freight trailer, I guess. No spacers and only six 5″ or so long bolts. Quick trip to the hardware store got me what I needed. As for the hockey pucks, it was a practical soloution that fit the need well.
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