door actuation rods
Tagged: bottom actuating rod
January 24, 2017 at 12:19 pm #476January 24, 2017 at 1:55 pm #477tomtntParticipant
contacted CLC and they offered to send replacement rods. great service! Make sure you cut longer than necessary.. no need to be exact on this step…January 25, 2017 at 1:24 pm #481John C. HarrisKeymaster
The design team at CLC has studied the actuating rod lengths and concluded that the 13-1/4″ & 19-1/4″ spec is too close for comfort. 13-3/8″ and 19-1/2″ for upper and lower, respectively, is better. Or rather, better that you cut the rods a little long and then trim if necessary. Too long is a problem, too, but it’s easier to trim a steel rod than to add length!
We’ll be sending around an official Technical Bulletin on this.January 29, 2017 at 10:24 pm #500
NO!!! 13 3/8″ is too short. They should be cut to 13 3/4″ and19 1/2″. Of this I am ABSOLUTELY SURE. If you cut them to 13 3/8″, you WILL be asking CLC to send two more.. My kit, hardware and build are exactly like everybody else’s. The ideal length is as long as you can get them without interfering with the door frame in the open position.
There is a second important issue with the doors: The rebate in the stiffener (upon which the lower door fairlead mounts) is 6mm (1/4″) too much putting the lower fairlead too close to the gasket surface and most importantly 6mm closer than the upper door fairlead is. Even if you make this up with a piece of 6mm plywood (cut to the shape of the rebate for aesthetics) ,as I did only after puncturing my door skin with the supplied screws, you will still need 1/1\6″ of washers under the lower and upper door fairlead to get your doors flush with the camper shell top and bottom when closed and rods arecalculated/When this isndone everything is peachy. The CLC folks claim you can just throw a bunch of washers in; but they really ought to correct this issue and their advice because a stack of washers 8mm high is damned high and a hell of a lot of washers. Close study of the prototype pictures in the manual shows zero rebate in the door stiffener. They need to admit they goofed by 6mm when they calculated/introduced the rebate.January 29, 2017 at 11:03 pm #502
There was a typo above. I meant 1/16″ of washers, not 1/1\6″ of washers.January 30, 2017 at 1:33 am #503
Another typo: I meant “when rods are engaged”, not “when rods arecalculated.” This website’s word guessing/ processing software is annoying. You write one thing and it doesn’t like it and changes it to something else without your permission.June 21, 2017 at 6:10 pm #946StarManParticipant
I also ran into both length and height issues with the door actuation rods. I am glad that I dry fitted the doors first before cutting the rods. If I had cut according to the manual, then I would have had two pair of short rods. The height level for the guide/fairlead is off by a bunch. I had to use a combination of adding washers and insetting the guide/fairlead on the door seal. There needs to be a fix for the height mismatch. (the alignment holes were perfect) Is a Tech Bulletin out for this?
I also had some relaxing of the door shape on one door. this added to the mismatch issue requiring me to push in on the door handle and the lower corner at the same time to make the door flush. Any thoughts besides the door strap technique?February 7, 2019 at 6:17 pm #2419CWStevensParticipant
I also cut mine precisely per the hymnal. As I recall, the top was exactly correct. The bottoms, I had to add 1/4″ on round 2. I believe the rods were about $5 each from CLC.
IMO, this should be listed as a TECHNICAL BULLETIN!!!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.