This topic contains 7 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  CWStevens 5 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #476

    tomtnt
    Participant

    your mileage may vary but the measurements given in the manual are too short for my lower door actuating rods.  The rod does not engage the lower doorframe fairway.

    Now, does anyone know where I can source two replacement rods??

    #477

    tomtnt
    Participant

    contacted CLC and they offered to send replacement rods.  great service!  Make sure you cut longer than necessary.. no need to be exact on this step…

    #481

    John C. Harris
    Keymaster

    The design team at CLC has studied the actuating rod lengths and concluded that the 13-1/4″ & 19-1/4″ spec is too close for comfort.  13-3/8″ and 19-1/2″ for upper and lower, respectively, is better. Or rather, better that you cut the rods a little long and then trim if necessary. Too long is a problem, too, but it’s easier to trim a steel rod than to add length!

    We’ll be sending around an official Technical Bulletin on this.

    #500

    Eric
    Participant

    NO!!!  13 3/8″ is too short. They should be cut to 13 3/4″ and19 1/2″. Of this I am ABSOLUTELY SURE. If you cut them to 13 3/8″, you WILL be asking CLC to send two more.. My kit, hardware and build are exactly like everybody else’s. The ideal length is as long as you can get them without interfering with the door frame in the open position.

    There is a second important issue with the doors: The rebate in the stiffener (upon which the lower door fairlead mounts) is 6mm (1/4″) too much putting the lower fairlead too close to the gasket surface and most importantly 6mm closer than the upper door fairlead is.  Even if you make this up with a piece of 6mm plywood (cut to the shape of the rebate for aesthetics) ,as I did only after puncturing my door skin with the supplied screws, you will still need 1/1\6″ of washers under the lower and upper door fairlead to get your doors flush with the camper shell top and bottom when closed and rods arecalculated/When this isndone everything is peachy. The CLC folks claim you can just throw a bunch of washers in; but they really ought to correct this issue and their advice because a stack of washers 8mm high is damned high and a hell of a lot of washers. Close study of the prototype pictures in the manual shows zero rebate in the door stiffener. They need to admit they goofed by 6mm when they calculated/introduced the rebate.

    #502

    Eric
    Participant

    There was a typo above. I meant 1/16″ of washers, not 1/1\6″ of washers.

    #503

    Eric
    Participant

    Another typo: I meant “when rods are engaged”, not “when rods arecalculated.” This website’s word guessing/ processing software is annoying.  You write one thing and it doesn’t like it and changes it to something else without your permission.

    #946

    StarMan
    Participant

    I also ran into both length and height issues with the door actuation rods.  I am glad that I dry fitted the doors first before cutting the rods.  If I had cut according to the manual, then I would have had two pair of short rods.  The height level for the guide/fairlead is off by a bunch.  I had to use a combination of adding washers and insetting the guide/fairlead on the door seal.  There needs to be a fix for the height mismatch.  (the alignment holes were perfect)  Is a Tech Bulletin out for this?

    I also had some relaxing of the door shape on one door.  this added to the mismatch issue requiring me to push in on the door handle and the lower corner at the same time to make the door flush.  Any thoughts besides the door strap technique?

    #2419

    CWStevens
    Participant

    I also cut mine precisely per the hymnal.  As I recall, the top was exactly correct.  The bottoms, I had to add 1/4″ on round 2.  I believe the rods were about $5 each from CLC.

    IMO, this should be listed as a  TECHNICAL BULLETIN!!!

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