Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Gerald Baranski
ParticipantI live in Maryland and had to have it registered as a trailer.If my memory serves right, To meet our state requirements for RV there needs to be a kitchen and a working bathroom inside.
Gerald Baranski
Participantit looks very similar to trim seal provided in the kit that is used on the interior of the rear hatch seal
I want to recommend this product at Amazon.com
Maybe this will point you in the right direction
ESPEEDER Car Door Edge Guards 32Ft(10M) U Shape Edge Trim Rubber Seal Protector Door Edge Fit for Most Models
by SYKRSS
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BFRMB66/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_xIXJFbBPDAPDD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1-
This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by
Gerald Baranski.
Gerald Baranski
ParticipantAmarine Made Boat Yacht Round Opening Portlight Porthole 10″ Replacement Window Port Hole – ABS, Tempered Glass -Marine/Boat/rv Portlight Hatch, Color: White, Black
by AmarineMade
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJK3VKE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_uCThFb41M1CMAGerald Baranski
ParticipantI left enough of the ring extending past the exterior so I can rubber band the screens on when I set up camp. I am considering using a ring with spring tension to hold the screens in the interior of the porthole
Gerald Baranski
Participantthat is an interesting idea. I’ve never seen it done but I really like the idea.
Gerald Baranski
Participant
I had the same idea. I am using smaller ones at the transom. I love themGerald Baranski
Participantsame problem. different solution.
Gerald Baranski
ParticipantGerald Baranski
ParticipantFor our doors we installed adjustable buckle clips (like on a backpack) its made it easier to adjust the doors. I skipped the mushroom vents and installed larger portholes.
Gerald Baranski
Participantline up those puzzle joints flat, flat, FLAT! if you don’t and try to make it flat by sanding you will sand through the plys and it will look bad in the end. careful on the corners also, don’t over sand- its easy to do.
for me, I found that the epoxy drips did not go away when I fiberglassed over them. If I could go back I would sand a little more on the exterior to get rid of the variation or maybe blend it a little more.
be careful in handling the plywood- any scratches from mishandling will show in the final product.
note that later in the instruction they explain how to smooth your joints with a gloved finger and denatured alcohol. this info is useful from the beginning on every joint
always have a helper, if possible. I built mine in a friends garage while he was building one at the same time. It was so helpful to share in all the labor. I don’t know how people do this project solo!
Buy GALLONS of denatured alcohol.
Have Fun!!
June 28, 2019 at 8:07 am in reply to: Filleting – Sourcing the right filler for a Bright Finish #2539Gerald Baranski
ParticipantTotalBoat Thixo Wood 2:1 Epoxy System 2.0 (Dark Brown/Wood Colored) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6D7UWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xjGfDbJR7JPS5
I’m not sure if this is something you’ve already considered. Or if they ship to you. They had this at the CLC shop
Gerald Baranski
ParticipantI have never had any problems with the CA glue. I wonder if yours is old or maybe went through a freeze/thaw cycle ?
Gerald Baranski
Participantcould you post a photo? were the panels “flush” prior to the fiberglass work?
Gerald Baranski
ParticipantGood Luck with the build. I started in November in an un heated garage (in Maryland). I use a propane torpedo heater to get up to temperature and then use 3 electric heaters to maintain the temperature over night. On the colder weeks here, I’ve avoided epoxy work but when it gets warm (any temp above freezing) this scenario has worked well.
Gerald Baranski
Participantconfirmed: info available in the spring
-
This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by
-
AuthorPosts