Welcome to TeardropForum.com › Forums › Teardrop Builders’ Forum › Rear panels alignment problem.
- This topic has 24 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 8 months ago by Jaus10.
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July 6, 2018 at 5:26 am #1950greenninja51502Participant
In the 2nd pic you can see how pulling the side panels into the galley flat forces them to go under the galley lid. I just had a thought…I can’t glass the hatch and side panels together like that can I? If not, I have to relax the angle between panels 3&4.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by greenninja51502.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by greenninja51502.
July 6, 2018 at 9:15 am #1953abrightwellParticipantYeah, you’ll want to keep those inside edges touching and not overlapping. It doesn’t have to be ‘perfect’ as you will be filling the gaps with thickened epoxy in later steps. But you definitely don’t want it to be overlapped. Personally, I had issues with this as well. Per the instructions I didn’t glass that joint past the cut lines. But as a result I found that one side was being very difficult and would break the CA glue. Ultimately, I did what @ArtisticAdam did and simply put in a stitch to hold it in place and that solved the problem.
-Adam
July 6, 2018 at 3:37 pm #1954ArtisticAdamParticipantIts looking better. Is your galley flat glued in at all? If not, try the alignment without it in place. My galley flat required a little shaping to fit the width properly.
Otherwise I would back out the screw/washer you added just enough to pop that hatch panel on the inside of the #3 as apposed to over the #3 like you have in the second picture. The transom and quarter panels should also butt up to the hatch lid pieces. You are shooting for a complete shell, no gaps, no overlap.
July 7, 2018 at 6:39 am #1957greenninja51502ParticipantYeah, the galley flat is glued in. I ended uo cutting the glass between the 3&4 panels and took a plane to the back end of the 4 panel to get a better fit. It was out of line 2 different ways. The hatch cover still overlaps a bit but I figure that I can take some off the edge of the panel if I have to later. I would have taken a plane to it but since it is under the glued in galley flat it wasn’t really possible without a major hassle. I’ll post pics when I can. Everything is lined up pretty well now except for a bit of overlap on the hatch lid on one side. I filleted it tonight so it is what it is. Thanks for the help guys.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by greenninja51502. Reason: Spelling
July 7, 2018 at 9:02 pm #1961greenninja51502ParticipantAfter sleeping on it I decided to do something about the hatch lid overlapping the #3 panel with a sharp box cutter. Much better.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xEs2s1Xy1U5ipQrH7
I wish I had spent more time on the good side now. Their definitions are now reversed. At least it is a spot that doesn’t show too badly. This is the right quarter looking down from top. Pretty wavy.
November 6, 2018 at 10:29 pm #2262RCRICHParticipantIm having this same exact problem with mine now.
It seems that the mold does not hold panel 3 in the correct shape for the lid and quarter panels to meet up right.
I was told to move on but now i think i should try to remove the galley flat and try to heat the panels and cinch them together.
Uggggggh
November 6, 2018 at 10:30 pm #2263RCRICHParticipantCan you remove a filet with heat?
November 6, 2018 at 10:37 pm #2264RCRICHParticipantNovember 7, 2018 at 4:00 pm #2265stretchMikeParticipantI don’t think heat will work and may damage wood. I removed a large fillet on my hath stiffener using an oscillating tool and round blade like this. great.
August 19, 2019 at 3:40 am #2707Jaus10ParticipantThanks for the heads up, looks like I was on a similar path. Managed to catch it during the “insert the galley flat stage” – I put a small fillet down the horizontal brace so it could take the lateral load of the clamp. Also managed to thread some copper wires (entombed in the fillet) to try and close the gap between the panel and the galley flat.
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