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I put together a solution over the weekend, for the bottom of the galley sections, I purchased some closed cell foam, similar to that used for the headliner, from McMaster-Carr. On the galley sides, since I bought a spool of trim-lock weather stripping for the door seal, and had plenty left over, I cut several pieces and installed it on the sides, providing some cushioning and protection for both the galley and contents.
For the rub wear between the galley and bulkhead, I lined the edges of the galley with weather stripping. The added benefit is it will limit any spills to just one area and prevent anything from dripping down into the lower section. My main wear issue is that the pots in the larger storage bin do shift around in transport, and the edges are wearing the side walls of the galley.
I built the teardrop first, then the ICC. Main reason for this was to be able to use the teardrop before I completed the storage box, given the number of hours needed to complete the module.
Buy a good sander, and it will last this project and more. Go cheap, and buy it about 3 times for just this project. Makita, Dewalt, Mirka, Festool… Go with one of those and you should be good. Stay away from Harbor Fright crap. Your vacuum should be ok, anything is better than just the dust bag on the end of the sander. You’ll still have a fine coating of dust on the surface even with the vacuum, but it should limit what is put into the air, if you use a good filter bag in the vacuum.
I love my Festool sander/vac setup. Their 5″ ROS sander is the most reasonably priced in their toolkit.
Rising temperatures will also increase the release of gas trapped within the epoxy itself. Think of a cool glass of water, as it warms up, bubbles form on the inside of the glass. It is not gas being released by the glass, but gases being released from the liquid itself.
Get to know your orbital sander well. You do want to make the surface uniformly smooth before varnish. The varnish itself does not build up quickly, so voids will continue to show through the layers. Spot fill any areas of significant spotting. I use razor blades as scrapers to bring down some of the high spots, and it seems to do a faster job than the orbital.
In case the links don’t work, search for the following on Amazon:
MIZUGIWA Stainless Steel Flush Hatch Lift with Back Plate
Marine Part Depot New 316 Stainless Steel Lockable Hold Down CLAMP
I’d post yet again, but this forum is not taking my posts for some reason. Watch, this one will get posted.
It’s up high enough that it only impedes the galley hatch a little bit from going up all the way. I added a small foam bumper to protect the hatch where it touches the support rail when the canopy is extended.
I installed the .437 inch height; .375 inch width version of this trim and it fit the channel perfectly.
Look on Amazon for Trim-Lok D-Shaped Rubber Seal. I tried using the original weatherstripping first, but it did not stick well, and in places would stick out from the door seam as well.
The rubber seal also worked well for sealing up my mushroom vents. I had leaks with them until I replaced the weather stripping with the rubber seal.
