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Kevin,
What I remember from when I talked to L&I, it wasn’t so much about the shop as the trailer. You submit a plan (which would be part of the CLC hymnal), and electrical details. They said there wouldn’t be much to inspect or review since they are mostly concerned with propane and plumbing. They might want you to install a smoke detector; I just can’t remember the specifics of NFPA 70, which is the guide they use.
If you are in Washington, give the local L&I office a call. They are easy to talk with.
I think you missed many expenses if you are selling a completed teardrop, like varnish, sand paper, electrical…….
Requirements vary by state. In Washington you need a sticker from labor and industry to manufacture for resell. Not difficult nor expense here.
No. That comes with a few caveats to come at the end.
Overload/shortcircuit protection. Don’t rely on the protection at the campground source. Get a shore power cable that has current protection built in, along with GFCI. Not expensive nor hard to find. That protects everything in your teardrop.
I sized for 20 amps but you could do 15 amps and save more on the cord. All the wiring and receptacles after the shore connection should be sized at or above the protection at the cord.
The caveats are that if you are needing an inverter to get 120VAC out of your battery, you will need something different. If your total anticipated 120v loads exceed the shore cable protection you need something different.
For me, the biggest downfall of an AC distribution box is the depth into the galley. I had one, never installed it, and sold it, and used a small 12v fuse box.
*Legalese : I am an electrical engineer, but I’m not your electrical engineer :-). And I’ve been drinking.
Kevin,
Custom Vinyl Boat Lettering – Green
3″ – FuturaWent on super easy and no sign of letters lifting or tearing.
I covered inside and outside with some painter’s tarps and made an iglooish playhouse for some kids. They painted some designs on the tarps. and the seem to play there most of the summer.
As with Eric’s experience, thousand of miles, some gravel roads, lots of snow, and underside still pristine. His bra answer sounds good, as I get spray all the way up to the roof fan. I just let it be, and when it needs to be refinished, that’s what I will do. No sign of wear yet.
After I saw a leak into the galley from my first hose test, I repeated the test with a painter’s tarp laid across the galley. After a few minutes of another hose testing and waiting for all water to drain, I opened it up and saw which part of the tarp got wet. I added a bit of gasket material to that area of the galley lid and that solved it.
It is for the wiring and it should face whichever way matches up with your wire run. Mine happens to exit the side .
I used a y splitter cord similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZX5WY3/ref=cm_wl_huc_continue . I plug the battery charger into one side and an electric blanket on the other side when needed.
Nice work! I added the Oly beer logo to my transom. The okume burns quite evenly. I was afraid the glass, epoxy and varnish might fade the char too much but it didn’t, so I could have tried some more detail. Your’s will be stunning.
“Whenever I see a mistake I think, ‘Yep, I’ll be seeing that for years.’”
That’s what I thought too. But most have just blurred into the background. Even the hole I drilled through the shell when adding a wire channel. The only one that still bugs me is where I was cutting the galley hatch out and the side cutter worm gear came apart and the blade went on a tangent. I can still live with it and maybe I will fix it someday. Maybe. It is still such a beautiful thing!
Speaking of the bottom of the TD; when I had mine licensed, the trooper doing the inspection strongly suggested engraving the trailer VIN number into the bottom. They would routinely look there if suspicious of a TD, and since these could so easily be removed from the trailer and be remounted, there would be a possible way to get it back or prove it was yours.
