Bob's tips and tricks
Tagged: light installation
July 5, 2017 at 10:55 pm #990
I followed the directions for mounting the hinges, but… I absolutely recommend applying the Drill-Fill-Drill technique with cell-o-fill prior to this step. This technique is covered by CLC when mounting the shell to the trailer. This technique will give you superior strength on the moving hinges and – perhaps most critically – more room for slop when you finally fit your doors/hatch.
Even if you use the screws to tack-weld the hinge pieces into place to get the proper fit, there will be other factors to cause a misalignment (the galley gutter, the door hardware, etc). After you fillet the hinges to the shell, you will not read until much later in the Hymnal about heat-shrinking the screws prior to mount the doors. This is great advice, but the added heat shrink decreases the margin of error for lining up the holes and achieving a flush fit with the shell. Lastly, the DFD technique will seal the inside of the hole, saving you the step of trying to push epoxy into the hole to prevent water rot. I recommend making the hole at least twice the size of what is pre-drilled, but the hinges can take a much larger hole.July 7, 2017 at 3:55 pm #997
Here’s what I did for lighting inside. Basically I clamped the door sill so I couldn’t split it, then drilled a hole on the edge where I wanted to route wires, then used a small saw to turn the hole into a keyway / slot.
The lights I’m using are these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DGQNDR?ref_=pe_623860_70668690
They seem to remember the dimmer setting between power cycles. The blue nightlight ring can be turned off so you don’t have a blue light shining into the camper all night.
Edit/update: forgot to mention that if I were doing this again, I would coat that slot with epoxy before gluing up inside the camper. I’m sure enough of the thickened stuff got in there because I had to push it out with some small tools, but it never hurts to purposefully coat it first.
Also, the above lights happened to just fit exactly. I’m going to use a small strap across the front rather than use any kind of adhesive. Maybe a strap (wooden strip and 2 screws) and a dab or two of silicone to keep it from moving around.
July 14, 2017 at 10:43 am #1050
- This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by Bob D..
a couple of tips re: installing the cabin shelf.
1). notice that the rear corners of the shelf will interfere with the epoxy fillet on the outside walls. I didn’t realize that. had I realized, I would have cut a small triangle off the corners and if necessary those cuts could be hidden with a small fillet.
2). install the shelf before you install the door sills. due to the angle of the side walls, you need to have the shelf pointing toward the floor after you position it near the slots, ant then you can then rotate it upwards to its correct orientation. I learned that the front corners of the shelf/fiddle interferes with the door sill. I had to slide the shelf in with the front edge facing the roof, which makes for a much tighter fit due to the slant of the walls. I had to whack it with a rubber mallet, and snapped off one of the rear tabs (which the epoxy fillet will hide).July 30, 2017 at 7:59 pm #1125
Buy pinking shears, they are worth it to cut the fiberglass, also if your wife/partner/gf/neighbor/partner sews, it’s worth having them cut the glass to cut down on runs and crawling. Just as working with frosting, sometimes a smaller bag is better in order to get the size of fillet you want, we used both gallon size (larger fillets) and quart sized(small fillets and patch work) freezer bags. The quart sized bags fit awesome in the extra large cups from Subway (normally their movie promo cups). If we were to do another teardrop, we would probably buy a frosting spatula to help with the fillets.
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