[Bob D.]

Sorry for the delay.  Just seeing this now.   I did install the door stiffeners before cutting out the doors but did not glass the inside (didn’t think of it till after I started cutting).   There is no noticable springout on my doors, but I also do not have the windows installed yet.  We’ll see!    I’m only 2 years into this project.  The first 90% went fairly quickly and then life caught up.   I’ll get back to it in the spring, I swear.  😉

 

Also, I hung my doors with the door hardware kit, got them centered up real nice, taped them down, and THEN installed the hinges.   Make sure you keep enough room in between the hinges for another epoxy layer or your trunk hinge won’t fit.  I need to do some sanding before that goes back on!

 

-Bob

[Bob D.]

I would and did fill in with peanut butter.  Later sanded a rounded edge where the router couldn’t quite finish the job, and of course glassed the bottom.

[Bob D.]

Pretty typical an LED runs around 20-40mA at about 1.2-1.7 volts.  That’s one LED.

[Bob D.]

The last one came through just fine.

[Bob D.]

I worry that the adhesive on Velcro will fail on the first sunny day in the summer.

[Bob D.]

I was at this stage last January.  Build a tent out of plastic sheeting and use a space heater (fan, not radiator) to keep the temperature up to 70F or so.  I got fancy with an Omega controller and solid state relays and platinum RTD sensors, but the thermostat built into the heater should be more than sufficient.   I was monitoring the temperature remotely and needed to see the display via webcam because I’m a geek.

[Bob D.]

I don’t see any pictures since the December 10th post.  Really interested in seeing your progress.

[Bob D.]

You shouldn’t have much or any condensation so long as you have ventilation.  Obviously you can’t have a breeze in the icy winter months, but you can probably have enough to knock back the condensation while still staying warm.

[Bob D.]

See this and the following posts in that thread: http://teardropforum.com/forums/topic/mistakes-oopsies-and-blunders/#post-587

[Bob D.]

I fixed a crack.  Put my knee right into the side with all my weight while squatting down.

 

I don’t notice it after the repair.

[Bob D.]

I don’t think $5k to $6k is going to be an issue.  My time is worth more than nothing, and in fact I’ll be pushing the $15k in labor mark before ever even outfitting this thing.   Only a fool would sell such a labor intensive build at the cost of parts.

• This reply was modified 8 years ago by Bob D..

[Bob D.]

Yes but not time investment.  At my normal rate, I’m at least $10k in labor into it and I’m not done.

[Bob D.]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>You’ll never recover your money unless you value your time at $0.00/hr.</p>

[Bob D.]

Mine shipped a month after the kit.  White plastic resin pucks.  I never did get the rubber vibration dampers so I used hockey pucks.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by Bob D..

[Bob D.]

Any half decent battery charger will monitor the temperature of the battery and compensate for that temperature during charging.  You can do this by being in close proximity and assuming that the battery and charger are fairly close to being the same temperature, or with remote temperature sensors (RTS systems).

Lead acid batteries generate hydrogen while being charged.  Some dump this hydrogen out to the surrounding environment more than others.  I can understand why some manufacturers would recommend keeping their devices away, especially for batteries that are in confined spaces where the flammable gas could build up.  It’s a liability issue.

 

I’m using a Genasun GV-10 solar charge controller for my system.  It is in close contact with the battery itself, fused appropriately, using very short leads.  There are no mechanical switches or relays to generate a spark that could ever possibly ignite built up hydrogen.     For little systems like we’re doing in the camper, this is more than sufficient.  For bigger systems, you monitor the heck out of the battery banks.

 

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