Got a door frame mounted… then I realized that getting the shelf in might be a little problematic (impossible) with both door frames in place. There’s not much clearance. I’m glad I checked. Like the galley flat, it may be possible but it’s a difficult thing the manual doesn’t even mention.
Pro tip: clamp a piece of scrap to your work piece before drilling to prevent tear-out (drill through the work and into the scrap). Turns out fiberglass can have pretty bad tear-out. Fortunately, the door handle hardware will cover up that mess. I’ll patch it up, of course, but I should have known better.
I went down to my local Woodcrafters store picked up a Corradi needle rasp (made in Italy… ooh, fancy!). This little rasp has been the absolute best thing for shaping or removing cured epoxy. It’s perfect for shaping the hinge mortises. Highly recommended! I just got the one for $15, but here they are on Amazon as a set.
Decided to use the trailer bunks to build up my top hatch frame. As you can see, there is quite a bit of space to fill because the frame is flat and the shell is curved. I will be shaping the frame with a rasp and sander until the top matches the curvature of the shell. I really want the hatch to mount as flush as possible so a small part of the curvature will just be squished down a bit. I’m just winging it, but I think it’ll work great. More to come.
The trailer kit arrives this Friday…