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I’m not familiar with the Keder Rail product.
I agree that some kind of netting to the ground would be good and provide a little wind protection too. My second try the campground had gravel sites which wouldn’t hold a tent peg so I held the two tent pole ends with cord at ground level to hold the poles in shape as you see in the picture.
Would like to have an eve of sorts over the doors to protect from rain, just enough to stand protected to off/on shoes or whatever B/4 getting into the camper.
The 8×10 tarp is just a place to start until I can create an awning That will work.
Interested to see what you come up with.
TnE
Rovineye,
thank you for the image.
I could not figure out how the seal was going to do the job. Especially at the top of the gutter that is sloped down toward the center of the galley. I figured that the water would build up behind the seal and overflow rather than divert around and down the sides.
TnE
I found that if you start with the camper on its side, the flat will be vertical. Insert the bottom end in a position near the bulkhead slot, then one hand inside and the other hand in the outside top, you pull with the inside and push outside top and the flat will bow enough to slip into near place and can easily be moved to its final position.
Put your long wires through the holes in the hull and bend the wires down flat against the inside so they won’t fall out or interfere . When the galley flat is near position, thread the wires through the flat and twist. Long wires allow you to twist the ends so you won’t loose them and allow movement of the galley flat to slot it into the bulkhead and position on the hatch lip. When you are happy, tighten up the wires.
My #2 panels are also too short by 1/2 inch. But they are the same length as the #3 and #4 panels which leads me to believe the 1/2 inch is intentional. How did you deal with the length difference?
If you made the short drip lip pieces wider to make up for the length difference, then it looks like the lip would not be outside the quarter panels.
I agree with the statements made about it’s all about the current (amps) requirements of a given device. But when you think about a flashlight that runs on 4.5 volts from a 650 milli-amp battery and lasts more than a week of steady use, I would expect those type of LED would have a much lower current draw. But I have never seen specs that list a given LED current draw, have you?
I come from a background of back-country Canoe camping in British Columbia and there is no TV or Radio or Phone service. I have no use for such things when camping. I am just tired of sleeping on the ground in a tent and age is starting to dictate what I am able to do .
You got me worried about my #2 panels since I have already cut all my 4mm and 6mm pieces and
am in process of cutting the 9mm pieces.
Fingers crossed ☺
TnE
