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I epoxied a strip of hardwood that was same length as bunks onto the bunks, making them deeper (or wider if you prefer) by a few inches. This illustration may help: www.memphisbagpipes.com/bunks2.jpg
If graphic doesn’t show up here, copy or type my link onto your browser to view it.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by stevie.
I use two pairs of chocks fabricated from 2×4’s. Both sides were beveled for a tight fit against the tires.
A small torpedo level works well for leveling the camper. It’s stowed away when not in use.
And I bolted on a pair of Atwood stabilizers onto the rear of my trailer. These absolutely were necessary to prevent the camper’s aft off the ground.
I like that – very clever.
I didn’t believe my single hasp latch was keeping my galley hatch secured tightly enough. I found these stainless steel Mizugiwa latches on amazon.com. Two more galley hasp blocks were necessary, but that was easy enough. And they will accept a small padlock.
Here’s where I found them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LA9Q9RC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ran an LED strip underneath the shelf. Another was attached to the top of the hatch trim flange. The former lights up the interior very well, while the latter provides more subdued illumination.
Also, I ran an LED strip on the underside of the galley hatch to brighten that area.July 21, 2017 at 2:28 pm in reply to: Thoughts on mounting window ac on interior bulkhead? #1070
I would think it’d make the entire camper vibrate. Could transmit sound throughout too.
I use both concurrently. 12v powers the exhaust fan, interior LED illumination, and a USB port.
An interior 110v outlet for a fan, TV/DVD, heater, etc. An exterior outlet was mounted in the galley for convenience.
I have a battery charger, but haven’t needed to re-juice the 12v battery while camping to date.
The cloudiness in the epoxy is called “blush”.
Blush can be removed by washing it off with a cloth saturated with undiluted vinegar. It should disappear with little effort and save a beau coup of sanding.
Actually it’s more of a chemical reaction and not so much a cleaning of the surface.
Yes, I did install longer bolts – 6 inches. I had to deepen the bunks with strips of oak board in order to clear the trailer’s fenders. Others have used hockey pucks. My method has served me well.
I installed them as the manual directed and bolted underneath the trailer. Your installation will be much stronger if you drill completely thru the trailer rail.
I bought my ss carriage bolts from amazon.com: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2TWNVR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To facilitate rod engagement, I tapered the ends of mine on a bench grinder. I figured that would persuade the rods to pass thru the fair leads without hang ups.
Disposable plastic spoons are excellent for spreading fillets into joints. Work well for mixing epoxy too.
A Foredom rotary tool was indispensable for me. More powerful and durable than a Dremel flexshaft.
I fabricated his & hers cabinets that I mounted on either end of the bulkhead. The shelf can hold only so much. They secure personal objects inside the camper too. Mine are 10″ 12″ x 4″.
Wet a gloved finger (repeatedly) with denatured alcohol to smooth fillets. The instruction manual mentions it, but after most of the filleting has been completed.
You’ll hafta wait a bit for the epoxy to cure, but don’t wait too long. I built over the winter months and 2 hours wasn’t uncommon. Result is really smooth fillets that look professional.June 13, 2017 at 4:57 pm in reply to: sanding/dressing the galley hatch and door openings #913
Unless your saw kerf is awfully thin, I believe you’ll find the gap just fine. I used the Dremel saw and a Bosch sabre/jig saw for doors and hatch.
Some builders stated they had difficulty with the doors rubbing against the eyebrows, but I didn’t.
I ended up buying another gallon of epoxy to finish my camper. Didn’t use even half of it though. Two quarts may’ve been more economical in my situation.
I have found a number of uses for the surplus epoxy. That stuff really can be handy.
I did only one epoxy fill coat on the bottom and painted it when camper when was 1st supine. I used a John Deere green paint. Very durable and easy to match color at a later date if needed. I painted my trailer with same paint.
I feared capillary seepage under the painter’s tape and was not disappointed. Switched to a new sash brush to paint bottom sides. Almost no seepage. Gotta have a steady hand – do it when you’re calm and haven’t been listening to the news. And some manner of arm support is helpful. It went fast for me. Finished the task with roller.
Once the camper is mounted onto the trailer, it’ll be harder than Chinese algebra to see capillary flow or not. If you want something really to fret about, try pondering about getting to hatch seals to seal properly and keep galley dry.
An engineer I know cuts firewood by measuring limbs with an electronic caliper, then cuts to length with an axe.
I have an Ultra-Saw too. Did some trim work just as faithie999 described and the camper and an earlier pirogue build. Dremel has created a fine tool to have in your collection.
There is less positive pucker-factor though when using a flush trim bit on the router.