Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
The battery charger manufacturer can tell you how hot it will get at maximum. Mine should only reach 130 deg F at bulk charge and I am not worried about that at all. As far as being close to the battery, mine is non-venting. If it was not sealed, I would have a concern with that location of the charger and the battery well.
If you can keep the alignment it will probably be stronger than with clamps. Alternatively, once right side up you could use CA glue to hold it in place and use the router, then break the CA glue bond and glue with epoxy with clamps.
Installed the transom. Wasn’t looking forward to it, but so much easier than I was anticipating.
The fit only required a minutes worth of adjusting with my tiny finishing plane on one area. There were some largish gaps between some other areas, but no so large that I needed to dam them up before fillets. Height was perfect.
I wired it in place from the outside which went pretty easy, reaching in with needle nose pliers. At the bottom I only put a temporary screw into the floor at one point, no wires.
15 pump epoxy with thickener was perfect. Not a pretty fillet on the top, but alright. Qtr panels not so good either as the angle is so flat, and I did not remove any wires, so there are lumps.
The glass tape was easy peasy. I cut and epoxied the tape, rolled it up and unrolled in place. No problem there other than a few errant strands flying around. After the fillets had set for several hours I pulled out the wires from the outside.
I really thought this part would be more awkward,recalling shimmying in through the transom hole before, but the access is really super easy now.
Mine looked about the same. I just sanded it even today as I was fitting in the transom. I will round it when I flip the beast this week.
I would cut the recessed tabs off the gutter risers and mount flat on the galley flat. They will be plenty strong with fillets. Take mounting dimensions off the end of the flat for later reference.
If you have a router, esp a plunge router, you could cut new recesses for the riser. At that point you might be all the way through the wood since there would be recesses on both sides, and might as well use a jig saw and cut the recess all the way through and strengthen underside with glass and epoxy after risers are in and filled with thickened epoxy. I would rather do either of those than cut out the flat. That would be NO fun.
For the galley gutters, I cut a 29 degree angle template to rest the lower section on as I tacked it in place. Wasn’t too difficult, but as others have mentioned, I don’t understand the gat at the sides of the upper gutter where it transitions after the cut channel. I filled it with thickened epoxy, as I filleted the underside of the rest of the gutter. Glad those fillets won’t show!
Can’t help you with mounting, but you could add temp control with an ink bird ITC1000 for less than $20. If you don’t want to wire it your self, you could use an ink bird 306 or 308. The AC unit plugs into that outlet, the outlet switches on/off using a temperature probe which you can set.
Bought a personal watercraft trailer, removed wood bunks and added aluminum bunks at wheel height. Also shortened the portion aft of the axel.
I picked up some more foam brushes today. I have lots of chip brushes left but they are pretty much useless. Hairs come out constantly and embed in the epoxy. That little expense put me over the $20K for this project so far. Rough estimate
In order to use the garage, which is where my wife parked, I had to pave the long back driveway at our house and add gates. $10K.
The other side of the garage was shop and brewing equipment. That stayed, but it was also my serving keezer. That had to go, so I had to build a cedar he-shed. All decked out that was about $3K.
Wife didn’t want to get out of her car to open back gates at new driveway. Solar powered gate openers $1K.
CLC kit $3.5K.
Tools, some I needed, most I just wanted (excuse) $1K
Electronics $.6K
Stuff: cups, rags, table, plastic, sand paper $.3K
Trailer $1.2K.
Too busy for happy hour -$.5K
I don’t have any problem cutting the fiberglass. Pinking shears have a zig-zag cut that prevents strands from unravelling.
Ken,
It does not cover the footwell. Can’t really see down there, except for folks just checking the thing out. Up front, it goes all the way down and same on sides fwd of the bulkhead. Those first taping jobs of mine are just terrible, but gratefully won’t be seen. I will still coat all of inside with epoxy and varnish just to keep it watertight.
