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I’m going to press on with what I have. The bottom inch will be painted over with a dark color, leaving roughly 2 inches of the crack visible. If it bothers me, I’ll blame all of you :-p
CLC did give me the option of purchasing another panel, and with freight it’s expensive as we’d all expect. If I lived in Maryland I’d buy another and pick it up, but I don’t.
-Bob
Here’s what it looks like now. It’s about 3 inches long, and I plan to paint the bottom and first inch up the side a dark color so that’ll leave 2 inches or so visible. It’s worse toward the bottom so I may just keep what I have:
http://www.nerdhouse.org/crack1.jpg
http://www.nerdhouse.org/crack2.jpg
http://www.nerdhouse.org/crack3.jpg
http://www.nerdhouse.org/crack4.jpg
http://www.nerdhouse.org/crack5.jpg
-Bob
Here’s where I am after gluing up the crack and sanding down most of the epoxy. It’s looking good. Talked to Ed at CLC and he suggested putting on a coat (I’m going with a coat as thin as possible) over the area to get a better idea of what it will look like when fiberglassed. I’ll know tomorrow. They seem open to selling me just that #4 right panel which is a great backup plan.
I talked to CLC and they recommended using straight epoxy resin and getting it into the crack and clamping it up. So far so good. I’ll know tomorrow how it turns out.
A suggestion by a friend was to cover the area with a name plate of some sort. It’s only about 3″ long, but it’s in a VERY visible location. Maybe something like this out of stainless?
I moved where the rubber washers were. In the instruction manual you can see they are between the frame of the trailer and the fender. I think this is a mistake. I’ve moved it to the inside of the fender so the metal washer never touches the fender. It’s much straighter now. Weird design. I’ll call Trailex next week to confirm what I did is the right thing.
Also, jeebus, 80 ft-lbs of torque for the wheel lug nuts. I’ve had to re-calibrate my arm. This feels super tight to me but it is consistent with wheels for cars so I’m pushing the “I believe” button. I torqued the spare to 50 ft-lbs because the bracket isn’t steel, and there is no weight on the spare.
-Bob
Yes, I had them up high till last night when I torqued them down. They’re as low as they go now. I put them on before I put the tires on and had no idea how they’d line up so I didn’t tighten them till after seeing that big gap and moving them to the lowest position.
I’m not super happy about the funky angle they’re on (top edge is pressed against the trailer frame). The L brackets don’t appear to be 90 degrees. I wonder why they did this. I may put a bit of rubber behind the top edge or attempt to bend the bracket. There’s probably a reason so I’ll research this a bit before doing anything.
Also, the Harbor Freight digital torque wrench kicks butt. $30 !
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-68283.html
-Bob
The wheel covers fit perfectly as well. This is the link to the ones I bought for the 12″ wheels:
-Bob
My spare tire cover came in today, it’s an ADCO 1740 (black) for the 12″ wheels I bought for the Trailex trailer. Well, it fits perfectly. Surprisingly so. It’s a “size O” (oh, not zero) found here for under $20 shipped:
I ordereda pair of covers for the wheels for when it’s parked in our hot New Mexico sun and will post back when I know they fit.
-Bob
CLC seems to like Iwatani butane stoves like this one:
I don’t like the open burner that close to the galley structure. I’m going to stick with my 20 year old Coleman dual burner propane stove since propane is easier for me to get. That and I already have it. It has a built in back wall to keep the heat away from the stuff behind it.
