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>>>>I would suggest applying epoxy to the galley flat (both sides), bulkhead and shelf before install.
I would, too, and sand them as well, but it’s impossible to fit into the schedule. We were able to catch it easily enough during the second week.
>>>>>>>>You’re applying the two layers of fiberglass on the top in two steps, or are you applying two layers followed by a third layer?
We did the top and sides in one shot, then added the second top layer the next day. You can see the sequence in the video of the last class: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20IRPaePjl4
>>>>Great video of the camper. Started sharing with friends/family on Facebook. Will we be able to paint the bottom of the camper – similar to the video/manual during class? >>>>
Studying the syllabus, I’m going to say “no.” Maybe we’ll get that far ahead, but we’re going to concentrate on high-quality joinery.
>>>What size spring clamps (2 inch?) and c-clamps should we be bringing?
Can we substitute 6″ bar clamps for c-clamps? I have much more use for bar clamps versus c-clamps
>>>>>>>>>You’ll use the 2-inch spring clamps the most on a project like this, to wit:
We have a couple hundred of those spring clamps in the classroom so we’ll be able to bolster your collection during the class to some extent.
>>
Will we get a chance to discuss the electrical components in class?
>>>>In broad terms. As we say in the manual, tutoring builders on how to engineer a 12-volt electrical system is quite beyond our purview.
>>>>Can I purchase the accessories (galley, vent, fan, roof racks, etc) at the class – or should I have them shipped home?You can get all of that while you’re here.
Three of five spots taken as of this writing.
>>>When will we know if/when we can register?
Within the next week. We’ve had enough feedback to narrow down a date. Not 100% yet, but trending towards June 12-24 with May 22-June 3 running a close second.
>>>>>
Will our trailers have the 12″ wheels?
>>>Yes, the supplied trailers will have 12-inch wheels.
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>>Is lunch provided or are we on our own?
>We haven’t provided lunch in the past. Given enough interest we could offer that as an option. Either way, CLC is minutes from dozens of eateries.
If you haven’t had a chance to respond to the feedback form yet, please do so by the end of the week! Click here:
The design team at CLC has studied the actuating rod lengths and concluded that the 13-1/4″ & 19-1/4″ spec is too close for comfort. 13-3/8″ and 19-1/2″ for upper and lower, respectively, is better. Or rather, better that you cut the rods a little long and then trim if necessary. Too long is a problem, too, but it’s easier to trim a steel rod than to add length!
We’ll be sending around an official Technical Bulletin on this.
Maybe if you rack the kayak on its side you could open the galley hatch enough. Shorter kayaks are no problem; we mount one of our Wood Ducks on the roof racks for display at show, with the galley hatch open all the way. But you’ll likely need to slack the aft tie-down strap on a 17-footer for full headroom under the open galley hatch.
Pasted over from a PM with Eric:
“Answer: the Trailex location is absolutely fine. Honestly, they could
be at 20″ or at 4” and still do the job as intended. I think we had to
put them on ours, and just said, “This looks about right.” I did not
realize that Trailex was now bolting those on.”>>>>>>Am I correct in assuming the strap will correct any misalignment, or will the stiffener “bake in” any angle issue from springback??
The strap was first installed simply because we needed a really ergonomic way to pull the door shut from inside. But we realized it also corrected any “springback” in the door causing misalignment.
>>>>so with the stringers, it can sit on a harbor freight 4×8 trailer over the fenders?
That is correct. The manual actually walks you through mounting the Teardrop Camper on a Harbor Freight trailer.
150 pounds is the static weight limit. I guess “dynamic weight limit” is a measure of how violent an impact the racks can survive. That I do not know. I do know that the rack mounts are quite a lot sturdier and more secure than the Thule racks on my VW Golf. So they’re really strong.
Depends on whether the camper shell fits between the trailer fenders or not. If not, you’ll bolt through a pair of stringers included in the kit. If yes, you’ll bolt right through the bottom panel. But it’s bolts either way.
