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We covered the bottom with the normal epoxy/glass coating as per instructions. Then we sanded it with 80 grit to make it a bit rough. We put marine deck coating on it after that. Ends up a hard grey/black shell. We went up the side about an inch to protect from road kick-up.
You are going to cover it with glass and epoxy. Once that cures you are going to cut along that seem so the edge between hatch and and side will be very close. Well, the width of your saw blade. Ours has a slight gap but inside you have the drip edge and the weather gasket so any water does not end up in the galley, it just runs out. I would take a picture of mine to show you but its -2F and covered in snow (under tarps and such).May 9, 2018 at 9:51 am in reply to: Changing the axle location on Northern Tool 5×8 trailer #1828
Thanks ArtisticAdam- I could not find anything like that calculator!! We did not shorten the trailer and the CLC is all they way back. So total length is 12′ and the bed is 8′. We have the CLC box at the front and is where the battery and storage are. Without the box at the front, you are correct, it was unstable or “tippy” as we called it. I will be pulling all of those number for the calculation tonight and will post back her about what we decide to do in case anyone else comes up with the same idea.
Thanks again for the info-
We finally got around to posting this. I guess we were just too occupied with having fun with Campy McCamperface this summer. Thanks so much for the excellent manual (or as we called it “The Bible”) and other builders on the forum to help us through the tense moments. Winter is bearing down on us but we will spend it tweaking the details and making big plans for next summer.
I have been thinking about this for quite some time. I wanted to be certain before I cut more holes in the shell. What are peoples thoughts on this- adding a gasket to the inside of the mushroom vent dome so it seals tightly against the shell mounting bracket for travel and for draft protection in colder weather? I also like the idea of a nut/handle/threaded rod so that the vent can be opened and closed while inside the TD. I haven’t figured out how to bodge that together yet though…
We have our Canadian trailer spacers as well. 🙂 did you bold directly to the trailer frame members or did you use flanges/L brackets of some sort?
That worked perfectly to get rid of the bloom. our transom though has more prodigious spots that may be from some water getting on it when it was curing last fall. We will just flip that over and it will be on the inside.
That’s a brilliant idea! We will give that a try and report back… Thanks!!
UPDATE: well, this caused a lot of stressful thinking. we just weren’t sure we could get it in without causing alignment issues down the road. Even using a LFH was daunting (little frikin’ hammer). It wasn’t the corners that were the issue, it was the sides where the side members are- along the copper staples. I sharpened up my box plane and set it as low is I could. We eased just a bit off of each side. I had drilled several holes in the stiffeners to hang a net or such in the foot compartment at a later date. We attached some ropes to the stiffeners through those holes and then leveraged the flat into place and BANG! it dropped right in to place. 🙂