CWStevens
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While there won’t be UV on the interior, you will have moisture collecting on the interior walls, and the adhesives used for the headliner may interact with the epoxy.
On the recommendation of CLC, we used a water based polycrylic. It’s less toxic and durable. Amazon product: B000BZYYH4
I wouldn’t recommend it… I’d use your random orbital sander to smooth out any rough edges, apply a few coats of epoxy, and continue on.
The weather seal is actually on the inside, where the squishy foam presses against the galley coaming. Adding additional edge gaskets may separate the foam from the coam. (Pun intended, I couldn’t resist.)
I cut right down the middle, then used the remaining CNC “dotted lines” as guides on how far to sand each side. You can also use the plexiglass to check the fit of the window cutouts.
Factor in materials in you decision… The trailex is lightweight aluminum, so no worries about the trailer rusting over time. I’ve had my trailex at >highway speeds without issues. <knock on fiberglass/epoxy coated wood> I do keep an eye on tire pressure and grease my bearings.
Hmm… It makes it harder to cut the plywood and avoid the hinge?
It does sound like an interesting idea, though.
Chris
I believe the foam weatherstripping is supposed to be applied to the perimeter of the door, not the door-frame. Then, (where you currently have weatherstripping) the water travels around the door and down to the bottom like a gutter. Weatherstripping in the top and bottom gutters may be preventing your door from closing properly in the mid-section.
Chris
The camper “costs” about 10% in mpg to pull. I don’t believe the cross section of a solar panel would produce a significantly additional amount of drag. (IMHO as an engineer.)
If you’re considering making it removable, I wouldn’t let drag/efficiency be a factor. Rather consider, do you want to alternate between going off-grid and kayaking or cycling? Or would you rather have the convenience of mounting it, and forgetting about it? (That’s how I’m leaning, but I have a rack on my car.)
Another consideration is that removable solutions run a small additional risk of improper installation each time you re-install the panel.
Chris
You could switch to fast hardener, but most everyone would recommend waiting for warmer weather.
Something you may also want to remember about working in colder weather, your hands have to be able to work too! I can’t see filleting with gloves on!
For the lights and fans, I chose as high as I could, keeping in mind you’ll have to wire around the upper lip in the rear bulkhead galley area.
I ran the rear lights and center fan through the starboard side of the shelf, then into the electrical area, under the shelf. No grommets, but EPOXY coat the holes prior to running wire. Then use flexible plastic conduit to dress the wiring.
I aimed my lower cabin lights down, not into your face, as CLC did. Use very short screws, the shelf plywood is thin!
Make sure you epoxy all holes, since condensation can be an interior issue when it’s cold outside and moist inside.
Chris
We put it directly on the epoxy. I can tell you… Do *NOT* use this stuff without ventilation and VOC canisters. It took overnight to dry before we could flip it back over. Once home, we still had to do several fill-coats of epoxy on top, which still seems to adhere well over-top the the black liner coat. (Varnish as well.)
I just bought some Rust-oleum Truck Bed Coating from Amazon. It’s what we used in the class.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070S7U4Y
I also cut mine precisely per the hymnal. As I recall, the top was exactly correct. The bottoms, I had to add 1/4″ on round 2. I believe the rods were about $5 each from CLC.
IMO, this should be listed as a TECHNICAL BULLETIN!!!
