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Hey, I am thinking about building a CLC on a 4×8 Harbor Freight trailer I already have. CLC mentions HF as an option, but it seems the CLC is designed for a 5×8 platform. Anyone got specifics for adapting for a 4×8 HF trailer? It’s got 1450# capacity and 12″ wheels.
@pwebster25 The CLC kit comes with four bunks that run the length of the camper and bolt to the trailer frame to raise it up above the fenders of the HF trailer.
Thanks, JB.
Does anyone have pics of that setup? Are there any concerns with sturdiness on the 6″ past the frame on each side?
Thx
Paul
Paul, I built on a 5×8 trailer so I don’t have pics. There are really good pics in the manual but I probably shouldn’t post those here since it’s copyrighted. I was going to suggest purchasing the electronic version of the manual as a great guide and backup to the printed version (which comes with the kit), but it went from $15 when I bought it to $79 now. I love having the electronic version but would hesitate at the current price. Maybe the study plans ($2.99) have some good pics?
Back to the topic, the ~6″ span beyond the trailer should be pretty stable because the floor is so thick. Even on a 5×8 trailer the camper is mounted on “puck” risers that are 4-6″ in from the edge of the camper.
Jason
P.S. Since the camper was originally designed to be on the even smaller 4x? HF trailer, I’m sure the 4×8 will be totally fine.
This reply has two purposes, to show an idea for a bike rack but also to share another plus for the Trailex trailer – the T-track on all sides of the main trailer parts. Extra nuts and bolts (a few came with the trailer and you can order more from Trailex) with the track make it easy to attach any number of things. For example, I’m working on a bike rack and having the T-track means small adjustments to where things go are easy to make. Here it is still in the idea phase but close to finished. The bike tires sit in a piece of steel channel bolted to the trailer. The ‘arm’ holding the frame is two pieces of square aluminum riveted together with another aluminum piece supporting the bottom part of the frame. Velcro holds the frame and tires tight and keeps the bike from trying to roll but I might find some short ratcheting straps to go around the tires instead. Ratcheting straps will also replace the kayak tie-downs pictured which work but don’t have the same pulling force as ones that ratchet tight.
The T-track makes it very easy to move things a little bit one way or another. It’s easier than using trial and error while you clamp parts temporarily to test fit and much better than drilling holes (say in a different trailer) only wish the hole was in another spot. You just loosen the bolt and slide it a little.
Below is a bracket bolted to two that came with the trailer. It’s aluminum and has a rotating piece that the square aluminum arm fits snugly over. A quick release pin keeps the arm at the correct angle. Again, the T-track let me easily slide the bracket back and forth to find just the right spot to support the bike frame.
The total cost of parts was under $25 – all but the tie-downs were bought at a local surplus store called Skycraft. If you’re ever in the Orlando area, I recommend stopping by. It’s hard to describe but it’s not like any other store you’ve ever been in.
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