Blank vent solution
July 30, 2017 at 5:59 pm #1121
I’ve had a little trouble with the knobs from Rockler loosing up as the metal part of the Rockler is aluminum and strips out if the set screw is tightened real hard. I ended up drilling through the knob and 5/16 rod and inserting a 6/32 bolt and lock nut and this solved the problem. This would have been easier if done pre installation.
BillSeptember 6, 2017 at 10:44 pm #1270
Hey Bill! I am looking at the mushroom vents now and I think I really want to go the route you did. How are they working? Do you find you snag the handle inside? Any chance for a higher quality picture of your awesome design?September 7, 2017 at 8:38 am #1273
After burning up a couple drill bits trying to drill through all the stainless all-thread shafts I decided on a different tack. I simply jammed lock nuts up against the nuts in the knobs. So far it is working. I probably didn’t need to use lock nuts, but felt it would help keep the knobs from coming loose, at least in one direction. If this ever fails I will try gluing the knobs to the lock nuts. That should be at least as secure as the connection to the cover.September 7, 2017 at 9:48 am #1274
Very strange that this posted on the wrong thread. I’ll try again where it should be. Sorry for the confusion!September 7, 2017 at 9:52 am #1275
Alright scratch that, it is in the right place. This is what I get for trying to work and play at the same time!September 9, 2017 at 5:34 pm #1291
What length SS threaded rod did you all use? Thanks!September 9, 2017 at 7:33 pm #1294
Hi Comccoy, sorry I did not ans soooner. As to the length, what I did and not keep a record of is take measurements as best I could and then cut the rod about an inch longer than needed. Then I put it together and remeasured and than cut. If I were to do it again I would just use the whole rod and assemble everything except the small knob. Than hold the knob up against it, allow no more than 1″ of exposed thread when the vent is down and sealed and the rod is long enough to reach the other side of the knob, about another inch. Nick the rod to mark it, remove it and cut it to length.
The knobs don’t appear to snag on anything, but might depending on how frisky one is. What does appear to be a possible snag canadate is the setscrew I put in on one to prevent it from coming loose. Like Diving Duck the SS was a *^%#€ to drill in place and I was afraid to unscrew it using the glued on vent cap and not wanting to take a chance of the 4200 breaking loose. Again if I did it over I would have placed it in a drillpress not tried it in place. Another afterthought would be to make the rod long enough to extend past and out of the other side of the knob and then sandwich the knob between two locknuts, I think DD did something like this.
BillSeptember 10, 2017 at 9:59 am #1296
Another afterthought would be to make the rod long enough to extend past and out of the other side of the knob and then sandwich the knob between two locknuts, I think DD did something like this.
I think this will be the way I go at least initially. The more I think about gluing it, I feel concerned that if I need to remove the cover for maintenance or repairs I would be stuck. All great ideas and thanks for the answers!!September 24, 2017 at 12:02 am #1332
I got the Rockler 5 star knobs. On the top of the knob I removed the aluminum disk it came with, put a wide flat washer in place and capped it with a nylock nut. On the bottom of the knob I have it locked in place with a standard nut and lock washer.
The only issue I have so far is that that clc recommended ¾” wide 7/16″ high seal is not tall enough to connect firmly to seal against the white shield. The standard ss nut I glued in place stands about 5/32 higher than the highest part of the white plastic. The threaded plastic part of the mushroom cap where the rod screws in comes in to contact with the nut right as the seal touches the white plastic. Not enough to actually seal.
It seals great without the white plastic shield but I like the extra protection it will give. I am going to look for a taller weather seal. ¾” x ¾” perhaps.
Did you not run in to this issue Bill? Maybe if I’d glued in a low profile nut I’d be ok.September 24, 2017 at 12:04 pm #1334
I haven’t done the “knob mod” yet, but I used a layer of the 7/16″ Frost King weather seat that CLC supplied, and on top of that I used a layer of 5/16″ frost king weather seal. you should be able to find it at your local hardware. I learned that at least in my area, Home Depot doesn’t stock it (???) but lowe’s does.
after a couple of trips driving in the rain, so far no leaks.
kenSeptember 24, 2017 at 2:45 pm #1336
I used a layer of the 7/16″ Frost King weather seat that CLC supplied, and on top of that I used a layer of 5/16″ frost king weather seal
Interesting solution! 10′ of the seal tends to run less than $5 so I’ll give that a try. Thanks!!October 10, 2017 at 5:12 pm #1367
Comccoy, from what I read it looks like you left out the white backing plate. I would worry about doing this at least on the front vents. These two don’t slant downward and if water is to run down to the bottom black portion of the opening it will enter the cabin. A sealed white deflector overhangs the black part and keeps the water behind the opening all around. Even if your rubber seal stops water when closed when open it most likely will enter whenever open driving or at rest. The thicker rubber seal along with the white deflector in your case should prevent this if it appears to be a problem.
BillOctober 15, 2017 at 9:56 pm #1395
Comccoy, from what I read it looks like you left out the white backing plate
I definitely had them on but the 7/16″ rubber foam would not seal. I added the suggested additional 5/16″ and that sealed perfectly.
We did out first test camp this weekend and as I burned some midnight oil on Thursday night I ran in to an issue with Bill’s design. I am not saying in any way it is a flawed design. I think it is a great design. But I ran in to a huge issue.
When I went to insert the threaded rod, on 2 of my vents the rod got partway through and they bound up. It would not go forward or reverse out. I used pliers to try and twist and free it and the 3 plastic support rods that hold where the nyloc nut is, sheared off from the twisting I tried to do. This happened on 2 of my vents. I ended up knocking the broken vents out with a mallet, replacing them, and going this weekend with the CLC screw on original design. And I have to admit I was pretty irritated at having to get out to open and close them.
When I believe happened is that some of the nylon sliced off as I threaded the rod in and then slid up and bound the threads so tight that they could not move. My theories for this are:
- I did not clean the ends of the rod I cut properly. I admittedly know very little about this so I tried to angle them like the screws I have. I uses a small file then some sand paper to smooth it out.
- I screwed the rods in from the inside. This means I hit nylon first. It is quite probable that once they hit the metal threads it was not aligned with the nylon ones it dug in first and cut some nylon off and pulled it in to the threads.
- I have cheap nyloc nuts from lowes. quality from lowes tends to be iffy so the nylon may be of suspect quality.
- I just got unlucky twice.
To be clear I still think it is an excellent design. I still plan on going with some version of it. Maybe even the same but with me trying to screw the rods from the outside in and educating myself on how to shape the ends properly. I also might try and figure out a way to not use nyloc as once a piece gets loose and binds that glued in nut the vent is pretty much toast. The $12 for a new vent is not terrible, but the time it takes to clean the sealant off the hole and start over is several lost hours. I am still very excited to get this working.October 16, 2017 at 7:34 pm #1403
my guess is the problem is your #1 thought.
I say this because when I mounted the camper to the trailer I tried to save a couple of dollars by cutting off the long SS carriage bolts that CLC supplied rather than buying new ones of the proper length.
I threaded a normal nut onto the carriage bolt, sawed the bolt to length, then removed the nut thinking that this would chase the threads at the cut end.
I put the carriage bolts through the bottom of the camper into the trailer frame and used the nylock nuts. almost immediately they completely seized up. being stubborn, I tried 3 of them before I gave up. fortunately I was able to use a Fein tool to cut the bolts off. I’m sure the problem was the sharp edges of my cut shredded the nylon insert and caused the seize-up.October 22, 2017 at 5:41 pm #1412
Comccoy, sorry you had this trouble, I should have given more info on this problem. I wanted less friction from the nylon lock nut and was aware of sharp edges causing your problem. Before gluing the nuts in place I tested and worked them in a vice on my bench first. First I used a fine stone on my grinder to chanfer the cut end and had a nut on before I cut it to length. I then removed the nut to clean the cut threads. Next I put the nylon lock nut in the vice and ran a tap of the same thread size through it with my small drill reversing it a few times. I then used a small drop of lub on threads to ease the friction and made sure no lub ended on the part of the nut where it was to be glued. Took a lot of time but it did avoid any jamming. Don’t know if I mentioned it but my first idea was to thread the extra length of door rod I had left over rather than buy some ss threaded rod because it was the correct dia. Try as I might I was not able to cut threads because the ss galled up in the die every time, ss is very touchy to machine.
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